# Sticky  *Thinking of setting up a planted tank?



## DiPpY eGgS

_Disclaimer_: There are many ways to set up a planted aquarium. They are not all addressed here. I do not claim to hold all of the answers, nor is this topic covered in full by this post. This is based solely on what I have learned on the topic. Thank you.

**GETTING STARTED**
When setting up a planted tank, you should first, before buying anything, figure out what type of setup you are willing to spring for. It is always best to know what your options are, BEFORE you start buying things for your new planted tank.
If you are going to go with a low light, low tech tank, you are better off sticking with plants that specifically do well in that setup. Here are _some_ plants that you might want to match up with your particular setup..(remember, that if you have high light, you can use 99% of all other lower light plants without issue.)
LOW
MEDIUM
HIGH
Here is a helpful thread on where to buy plants  by P-Fury member BigChuckP
After you have figured out what type of tank you want to run, and decide on some plants you want to use, now you can start making decisions about what substrate, filter, lighting, and CO2 products you want to use(if you are using higher light)
*note: It is important that you have lots of healthy plants to start with in your tank, to increase success!

**SUBSTRATE**
There are so many options here. You can spring for the more expensive types that have lots of nutrients and helpful things in them, all the way down to good 'ole inert sand. There are many brand names, and price ranges here..
(note* you can use bigger gravel for plants, but I do not recommend it, simply because it is hard to work with, and traps lots of debris in it)
Here are some of the name brand 'pricey' ones, made specifically for planted aquariums:
ADA Aquasoil-Powersand substrate system- This substrate system has peat covered lava rock for the very bottom, and a nutrient rich fine substrate on top. It is probably the best substrate on the market, as far as the nutrients it contains, and how well it grows plants.. However, the nutrients become used up in a few months, and you will have to be able to dose fertilizers well for this system to work well for you in the long run. I recommend this substrate for people who know how to run planted tanks already, who want to grow very difficult plants, such as Eriocaulons, Toninas, and other sensitive, soft water loving plants. (or you just want to grow nice plants) *This product lowers pH very low, keep in consideration when deciding on fauna. Also, the use of pH controllers is not recommended with this product. $$$
Flora Base- This is very good substrate for growing nice plants. This product, like the Aquasoil, softens water a bit, and lowers pH, but not as much. It is nutrient rich, and excellent for more delicate spiecies of plants. But it won't sustain your plants as long as the Aquasoil with only small amounts of fertilizers. It is soft, so it can get mushy after a long while in a tank, but it still is great to use. (Aquasoil does this as well) pH controllers are iffy with this stuff. A very good product.. $$
Eco-Complete- Another good choice for name brand planted aquarium substrate! I have some friends that use this substrate with no complaints. It does not affect your pH, so the use of pH controllers is ok. It doesn't soften the water either, so you can/or should keep that in mind when choosing more delicate spiecies of plants. It also comes with a live bacteria bed, which is good for plants, and is nutrient rich as well. $$
Flourite- I have this in my 75g high light tank. I can say that this product is an all around good product that works very well for growing plants. As Eco-Complete, it is pH neutral, and does not soften water, so the use of pH controllers is ok. Nutrient rich, good substrate, with a great track record. works best after the bacteria bed has been thoroughly established. But you can help that along by adding filter water to 1" of flourite, adding the rest on top. $$
Then there are the less expensive ones that are bought at pond supply shops, and gardening centers. These are great for people who want a more complete substrate, on a budget. Here are a couple examples.
Shultz Aquatic Plant Soil- I have used this nutrient rich product, and I can tell you that it is quality stuff. I have had more than what I expected results with it. The color is a bit odd, but for someone on a budget, it simply can't be beat. Good product, good price, wierd color. Good deal! $
Soilmaster Select- I can only find this good stuff at Lesco stores. But wherever you find it, Buy it for your planted tank! It comes in red, and charcoal. The red is ugly, and my local store only had the red. So I ordered it online, and they sent it to my local Lesco store for free, and the manager even came in on his day off so I could pick it up. I grew some of the nicest plants with this stuff. At even cheaper than the SAPS, and a better color, this stuff simply cant be beat.. a 50lb bag covers a 75g with no problem. 
_For those who like sand_, no worries. You might have to stir it up a bit to keep it from compacting too bad every now and then, but sand can certainly be used. It does not have anything beneficial to plants in it, like the substrate mentioned above, but your plants will grow good, as long as you fertilize your water column, which you have to do anyway..

**FILTRATION* * 
Any tank needs good filtration, and a planted tank also, should have good circulation, for nutrient and CO2 distribution. For those who are considering using CO2 (or even not), either DIY, or pressurized---CO2 is unstable in water! It naturally wants to escape the water as quickly as it can. A great way to reduce the time it takes for your CO2 to leave the water, is good diffusion, and _low surface agitation_. Surface agitation is directly related to the filter you use, or how you have it set up.
The best filters to use for controlling surface agitation are the ones that you can set up so the filtered water can return to your tank underneath the surface, like any *canister filter*. But, any filter that can be set up like that is ok. This is not as much of an issue with lower light, lower tech tanks, but it still _can be beneficial _ to any planted aquarium, simply because any amount of CO2 in your tank is utilized by your plants.

**LIGHTING* * 
Your tank will certainly need decent lights. There are many, many types of lighting available to use, at varying costs.. from reputable name brands ready to use, to a fun DIY project. The amount of light you use will determine if your tank will be a low, medium, or high tech tank. 
However, the type of lighting, and how it is set up, blurrs the line between them a bit. For instance.. a 40 watt T12 fluorescent shop light over a 75 gallon tank, will not be as bright as a T8, T6, Power compact(or PC), T5, or Metal Halide bulb of the same wattage, and a nicely polished reflector installed will even increase it's effectiveness.
In that way, wpg, (or watts per gallon) becomes a very general way of describing how much light you have over your tank. That being said, if I have 1.5 wpg of T12 shoplights on tank A, and on tank B, I have 1.5wpg of power compacts with a reflector, they will have different amounts of light over them, and so they will have varying needs. CO2 starts becoming a must to suppliment _somewhere around _ 1.7 to 2wpg. (depending on how bright your setup is)
The kelvin rating is also an important thing to consider before making a purchase. Plants need bulbs anywhere within the 5000k to 10,000k range. They both work, it really is a matter of what you like to look at. 5000k being more on the red side, and 10000k more on the blue.
Here are some nice pre made planted aquarium light fixtures..
You can also use shop lights bought from places like Home Depot, or build your own hood, with the bulbs of your choice installed. My personal favorite lights are A H Supply Bright Kits. You have to wire them yourself, either in a pre-built hood, or a DIY one. Very bright, very nice reflectors.
You can also boost existing shop light fixtures, but that is not my specialty. But it is worth looking into, if you are on a tight budget, and you want brighter lights.
Another important thing to consider buying for your lights, are timers. Timers ensure that you are giving your plants a consistent photoperiod every day. 12 hours a day is a standard photoperiod, although you can turn it all the way back to 10 hours a day if some algea starts to form. Any more or less time is usually not recommended.

**CO2** 
There are many ways to set up a CO2 system as well. If your light isn't quite bright enough to 'have to buy' pressurized CO2, you can suppliment with Flourish Excell(a liquid carbon source). This is also good for killing many forms of algea as well. I actually use this product sometimes in my pressurized CO2 aquarium to kill some stubborn algea that rears it's ugly head from time to time.
Another good method of getting some CO2 into your tank is the DIY yeast method. This is not for high tech tanks, but for tanks that are on the 'verge' of needing CO2. If the DIY method, or Excell method are not working good enough, you can do both the excell and DIY for better results.
A good way to tell if you need to suppliment CO2, is the forming of, or presence of BBA(or black brush algea) 
Pressurized CO2 is a must for higher lighted tanks. A CO2 system for your aquarium can be pieced together for a fun DIY project. <<Our own Husky Jim has some great info on this already.. 
But if you are not sure about doing that, you can usually buy what you need, and get decent deals from Ebay. I bought a 10lb CO2 cylander from ebay. But I did find a better deal on 2 20lb cylanders at a local welding supply shop, so don't forget to call around.
Then you will need an aquarium CO2 regulator, like a Milwaukee or a JBJ. You can buy a nice little set up at drsforstersmith.com  too..
I use a pH controller  on my tank with flourite, but I use a straight bubble count on my peat bottom tank.
If you do not use a pH controller, you will need to have the CO2 turn off along with your lights, so the CO2 levels do not rapidly rise overnight. The use of a check valve will keep water from backflowing into your expensive regulator, possibly causing damage.
After getting your cylander and regulator ready to go, then you will need to devise a way to diffuse the CO2 into your tank. You can use glass diffusers or CO2 reactors or yet another funDIY project.  Or, if you are using a canister filter, you can simply put your CO2 tubing into your filter intake pipe to be chopped up by it's impeller, and spewed into your tank that way.

**FERTILIZERS** 
Any planted tank will benefit from having proper amounts of fertilizers. Low light tanks are not quite as needy as medium to high light tanks, but if you keep them fertilized properly, your low light plants will be kept in great shape. _PLANTING HEAVILY IS RECOMMENDED FROM DAY 1 FOR THE HEALTH OF YOUR AQUARIUM. ESPECIALLY IN MEDIUM TO HIGH LIGHT TANKS_ If this step is avoided, you are taking your chances with algea infestation after a week or 2, from simply not having enough plants, let alone dosing enough fertilizers. This can make having a planted aquarium very frustrating, or some might give up after seeing all the algea that can grow as a result of skipping this step.
With low light, (1wpg or so) _depending on your fish load_, you might be able to maintain a healthy balance for your plants by only adding micro nutrients once a week. But I will say that having nitrate, phosphate, and potassium handy, will be like having added insurance for the health of your plants. The key is having, and using your _nitrate_, and _phosphate_ test kits.
Every planted tank will greatly benefit from having _10-25ppm nitrates_, and _.5-2ppm phosphates_, even the low light tanks. _20ppm potassium_ is also a very good thing. With higher light, things will quickly go downhill for you if either of those nutrients are not present in the water column.
So, if you have a low light tank, and you want to make sure your plants are getting all they need to be very happy-- I recommend adding micro nutrients once a week, according to the bottle after your water change. After a couple of hours, then check your nitrates and phosphates, to see if they are near optimum levels. If not, then you can add them accordingly. This will help your plants tremendously.(adding some potassium at water changes will help stem and root strength)

With a medium light tank, I do the same thing as above, but add more micros than as directed on the bottle. Double or more, 1ce a week, depending on how good or bad the plants look. I add extra iron to my medium light tank, it seems to do good things for my plants.
You can check your macros (nitrate, phosphate, potassium), so you get a feel for how much you should add. You should have to add them once a week with the micros. Also, with medium light, you want to check your DIY yeast CO2, to make sure it is producing, or dose your Flourish Excell according to the label.., or both.

High light, with pressurized CO2 tanks, you will most likely have to add fertilizers every day. I add nitrate, phosphate, and potassium directly after a 50% water change, and try to get them in optimum ranges.. (I do large water changes because it reduces any fertilizer build up, and reduces chemical bonding, or any other water quality problem) 
-Day 2 is micro dosing day, with added iron. I add just as much iron as I do micros. Some say that is strange, but it surely helps my tank. Plants new growth seems pale, or white if I don't add the extra iron. I usually add about 2X the amount of what the bottle calls for. But that simply depends on how much light you have, and how many plants are in your tank.
-Day 3 goes back to nitrates and phosphates. Again, if you do not dose enough nitrate, your plants will simply stop growing, causing them to be vounerable to algea infestation. If you do not add enough phosphate, your plants growth will be hindered, and will make them vounerable to other types of algea infestation. So it is important that you are checking these elements in the water so you are sure you have enough in there.
-Day 4 micro day. With high light, and CO2, your tank will be going through these nutrients like crazy. Every tank is different, though. Depending on what type of light you have, will determine just how fast your plants will be going through these fertilizers.
That is another reason to keep checking nitrate and phosphate uptake for a month or 2, so you can get a 'feel' for how much micro ferts to dose as well.
Day 5 macro, day 6 micro again, day 7 50% water change and back to macros.

The Flourish line of fertilizers are, in my opinion, the best on the market, hands down. They are also, needless to say, the most expensive. Here is a complete list of what you should have if you want to shell out for this line:
Flourish comprehensive
Flourish iron
Flourish nitrogen
Flourish phosphorus
Flourish potassium
But! If you are like me, and can not afford this line of products, there is good news. Greg Watson is a man who is a planted tank hobbyist, who had the great idea to buy much cheaper dry fertilizers by the 50g drum, and offer them to the general public, at a significant discount.








Some are not as good as the Flourish line, but, the amount of money saved is well worth it, and plus, you cn always mix and match to get the best of both worlds..
But here is a complete list of ferts that you will need from Greg's online store:
CSM+B
Chelated Iron
Potassium Nitrate
Mono Potassium Phosphate
Potassium sulfate
These can be dissolved in distilled water(or even tap water) at varying strengths to add to your tank, or can be added dry. 
I simply put 1 Tablespoon into 250ml's of distilled water, for each nutrient. I never mix them. I keep them separate, so I can dose what I need to add.
What a lot of people do, is mix and match the ferts as follows: Flourish micros(comprehensive, and iron), and Greg Watson macros (nitrate, phosphate, and potassium) This will give your plants the best micros available, and the other nutrients are just fine. Plus you saved a good bit of money!

***IF you have any QUESTIONS about your tank, or have any PROBLEMS, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST!!--it will help everyone who is trying to help you!
Info on *algea, and algea troubleshooting* comming soon..


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## Sheppard

This is GREAT info Dippy!!

Could not have been at a better time...I'm just getting ready to plant out my 23 gallon long.


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## DiPpY eGgS

Sheppard said:


> This is GREAT info Dippy!!
> Could not have been at a better time...I'm just getting ready to plant out my 23 gallon long.


Thanks man.. more info comming soon. I hope it helps a lot fo people thinking of planting.

If there is something someone wants me to add or if there are mistakes that I have overlooked, anyone, feel free to PM me or something


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## BlackSunshine

Great wealth of knowlage there. 
Chapeter two Ferts.


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## DiPpY eGgS

BlackSunshine420 said:


> Great wealth of knowlage there.
> Chapeter two Ferts.


lol, working on that.. I need a break, my brain is frying









I'll be trying to tweak it along the way, so it is easy to understand, and has correct info, or as correct as far as I know info..lol


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## assclown

what a great read, thank you very much for saring dippy
i am still on the fence if i want to start planting, sounds so complicated
however, i am looking at the easy plants and having low light,
these seem a good way to go when first starting out, YES?

thanks again man........look forward to the rest
Dennis


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## therizman1

Very good write up Dippy... I cant wait for the algae write up... its one of the few things that I think I still lack quite a bit of knowledge and understanding on.


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## JustJoshinYa

thanks dippy, great info you saved alota people alota time


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## DiPpY eGgS

> what a great read, thank you very much for saring dippy
> i am still on the fence if i want to start planting, sounds so complicated
> however, i am looking at the easy plants and having low light,
> these seem a good way to go when first starting out, YES?
> thanks again man........look forward to the rest
> Dennis


Glad you like it Dennis, I hope after you read a few times you get compelled to go for it!! I would love to see this site have gang loads of beautifully planted P tanks!! --And yes, it is not a bad idea to start out with lower lighting. The fertilizing part is complete, *i think* lol


> Very good write up Dippy... I cant wait for the algae write up... its one of the few things that I think I still lack quite a bit of knowledge and understanding on


Ya, you got this stuff down to a science! I can't wait to see your new thread on your planted tank(s)! The algea part will be, just like the rest of this thread, based on my personal experience..Hopefully it will help a lot!! *comming soon!*


> thanks dippy, great info you saved alota people alota time


Thanks Josh, I wrote it for that very purpose! I hope it helps! I said before, I am doing this so that hopefully P-Fury has some of the healthiest, and best looking planted P tanks (or regular fish tanks) on the net!


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## benJii

Awsome write up dippy, truely an inspiration to us all.


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## Winkyee

Great write up Joe, 
I'm hoping to again plant a tank, it's so enjoyable.
Pete


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## DiPpY eGgS

> Awsome write up dippy, truely an inspiration to us all.


Thanks Tibs, I'm sure you will be inspiring people, once you get your tank thread going










> Great write up Joe,
> I'm hoping to again plant a tank, it's so enjoyable.
> Pete


Thank you Pete. Your tank was so beautiful!! I miss your threads!! Your Rhom is such a beast!! Have you gotten a bigger tank for him yet?


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## Malok

is this pinned it should be.


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## cueball

bring on the alge page dippy


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## dark FrOsT

very helpful thank you so much


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## shoal king

this post is definetly worth being pinned


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## Xantarc

Great info i needed this


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## cisco35

is there any tricks to getting the substrate in there and settled. should i turn off my filter till it has settled? seems to be just kicking it back up. should i have my plants floating until i can plant them or should i keep them in the bag they came in?


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## ICEE

how much substrate did u put in???


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## cisco35

two bags of flourite its a 125 gal


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## LFSuperfly144

Very helpful


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## Malawi-

Fun reading all that. Hmm.. Shall I start another planted tank?


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## RedneckR0nin

Thx this has been really helpful in prepping me for real plants,get them after i move.They kinda of intimidated me when looking at them when i started and i thought one less thing to kill but after seeing so many tanks that are a showcase more than a domain I'm in.


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## notaverage

So I was told to check out this site before and noticed Dippy said to do the same here....
I don't want to have to use C02 right now.
Lighting fixture LINK

I was thinking of this for my 55 that I started up in mid December.
Is it safe to say this will be ok to mount on the inside of my hood without creating a hazardous situation with the heat???
Can I get away without using C02 or may I get into needing a DIY C02 possibly?

I want to keep it simple!

Thanks all!

2 x 55 watt Bright Kit™

Item # 30552

$69.99
Includes: one 14 ounce, solid-state electronic ballast that will operate two bulbs; two 22 inch long multi-angle MIRO 4 enhanced, polished aluminum reflectors, two moisture-resistant endcaps with cords; four steel bulb holders; one grounding power cord; wirenuts, screws and other hardware needed for installation; optional-use pop-in vent covers, snap bushing, UV resistant cord clamp and nylon spacers; and ballast operation information and wiring diagram. Requires two 55 watt compact fluorescent bulbs (not included).


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## Killabee

deleted post


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## Freebird11

*Piranha Keeping for Beginners: *
The piranha is a fish legendary. Known as the "Water Wolf" these amazing catch fish designed as a perfect package, which normally leave no chance of escaping prey.

The fish has developed the perfect anatomy for short bursts, sharp, speed, together with a mouth full of razor sharp teeth, pulling the most fish and animals to the bone in no time.

OK, what's the bloody fact. What about the fish themselves? Shapes, colors, etc. This shoaling fish is incredibly diverse in all these areas, as I will explain.

The common piranha is divided into two main genres (family groups). They Pygocentrus and Serrasalmus groups. The family is known Pygocentrus blunt, bulldog face that most people associate with Serrasalmus piranha fish and a sharper face and / muzzle.

So, how many different types of piranhas are there? Most people would have thought a single through the stories and made movies that gave them the fame that I have described in paragraphs first. Actually go into double figures and still find new variants.

As the fans are concerned, however, is likely to be 9 or 10 different Piranha is maintained. When I say "normally", the U.S. have easier access to these fish that are captured in South America, so the hobby is much larger and more races here in the UK. We are currently trying to change that, and so far I have imported over 70 Piranha wild in the UK by a group demanding increasingly Piranha keepers and newcomers.


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