# i need some pluming advice/help for this diy project



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

okay i i'm near finishing this project up. but still lost on how this sump and over flow thing gona work. so i'm asking you guys for help again. okay what do i need to buy and what do i need to do to start the pluming process ? i plan to have a few guys to help me put the tank on top the stand today or tomorrow hopefully. my holes are drilled in box already so i want to start the pluming process, i have a 2'' hole and a 1 1/4'' hole, what do i need to do ???? no i wasnt able to lift the tank but i was able to stick my fingers in the black hole to feel there are threads at the top of the 2'' but the 1 1/4'' hole i couldnt feel and threads at the top anyways , and i couldnt lift enough to feel the bottom of the 1 1/4 hole. this tank also came with a pump if that helps . again thanks for any advice you guys have been great with this whole process of my diy project


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol

call up them buddys!


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol
> 
> call up them buddys!


im not asking anyone from this site to come help me move it. i'm asking what do i need to buy or whatever once they tank is positioned ? since it may be position anytime between today and tomorrow. i just want to know what im missing and what do i need to do once the tank is on the stand to start the pluming process. just trying to get some advice/help either you can help me or you can't that simple. i wouldn't waste my time or anyone elses time asking any of this if i knew already.....


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol
> 
> call up them buddys!


im not asking anyone from this site to come help me move it. i'm asking what do i need to buy or whatever once they tank is positioned ? since it may be position anytime between today and tomorrow. i just want to know what im missing and what do i need to do once the tank is on the stand to start the pluming process. just trying to get some advice/help either you can help me or you can't that simple. i wouldn't waste my time or anyone elses time asking any of this if i knew already.....
[/quote]

Is there one or 2 overflows like the one pictured? What kind of return pump are you using? What special features would you like to incorporate (as in what do you really want to see when its done)?

I will draw you up a diagram if you can provide some more info for me









Im also going to need to see the bottom of the bulkheads... if your tank is sitting on the bottom right now something is wrong, bulkheads are 2" or so deep, and if they were cut off you will need to replace them.


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

Another thing you have to think before you start is if you want hard or soft tubing. Hard tubing looks better, but its hard to clean when setup.

I would search different overflow types and some diy ones for the piping inside the overflow. Going to the sump isnt hard thats just a couple adaptors and some tubing, but the drain and return is more important. I agree about the bulkheads that you may have to replace them. Bulkheads are ment for either hard or soft tubing so you have to know which you want then from there you will need the appropriate sized tubing or pvc (and cement) to plumb it (avoid corners/ turns as it decreases flow).

Can you do a paint drawing or somethign of what you have?


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

Joe and I recommended he goes with tubing instead of PVC as its easier to work with


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

Check this site out and google sump plumbing or somethign like that. The problem with sumps is there are a million ways to do them so there is no one way to recomend. Its all ab out preference. 
Something like the folowing like is a simple setup id suggest you do. Minus the protein skimmer.. but i mean the flexible tubing like that;

Visit My Website

Heres another with somewhat pvc tubing (its not true pvc, as its a bit flexible)

but you can see it goes in one side and otu the other for a simple setup. You could take out the t at the return that recycled the water through the sump

Visit My Website

Inside the overflow box

Visit My Website

Just seach through google to get an understanding of what you want to do as we cant really tell you sicne there are a ton of meathods. Something like 2 drains to sump and a return that branches in two is probably the simplest you can get

Somethings you will need for pvc are: piping, cement, cutters, strainer, valves, quickk disconnects, elbows...

For flexible tubing, bulkhead for flexible tubing, some plastic clamps/ ties, adaptors and any pve you want to add (such as valves..)

Personally i have a 15g with 10g sump with flexable tubing. Overflwo box drains through corrigated tubing straight to sump. Goes through sump and is pumped out by a mag 3 with a plastic adaptor (from big als that adjusts the output size to the tubing size. then that goes up to another adaptor which screws into a plastic u that goes over the tank rim andfinially through loc line return (drilled at the back to prevent siphone if power goes out. Id do somethign liek this but becasue of the larger tank size you probably want to add a couple valves and a couple quick disconnects

good read


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Flexible tubing is a death wish... i wont ever touch the stuff. I feel its the "lazy way out" of most projects.

Plastic tubing ages quickly compared to PVC, and is especially vulnerable to UV light. I have seen tubing crack, or randomly develop holes out of nowhere causing major flooding. I have also seen plastic tubing kink and break, or just plain explode and blow out because of the constant return pressure on the line. I have seen hoses work their way off the nipple, and countless other problems that PVC isnt a victim of.

PVC is extremely easy... you start at your bulkheads and work towards the other end dry-fitting and marking every piece where the glue line should be and the piece is lined up. then disassemble, add primer and glue, and line your marks back up. If you can use a tapemeasure, glue stick, and a hack saw hard lines are the way to go.

I did a topic in the DIY forum about plumbing... check it out! Lets face it.. this plumbing should be permanent and something you can forget about from here on out. Add true unions for pump maintainence and any other pieces you may need to remove and you are set to jet.


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

dmackey said:


> im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol
> 
> call up them buddys!


im not asking anyone from this site to come help me move it. i'm asking what do i need to buy or whatever once they tank is positioned ? since it may be position anytime between today and tomorrow. i just want to know what im missing and what do i need to do once the tank is on the stand to start the pluming process. just trying to get some advice/help either you can help me or you can't that simple. i wouldn't waste my time or anyone elses time asking any of this if i knew already.....
[/quote]

If your going to be so beligerant about it whatever. This is my last post in your threads.
good luck


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol
> 
> call up them buddys!


im not asking anyone from this site to come help me move it. i'm asking what do i need to buy or whatever once they tank is positioned ? since it may be position anytime between today and tomorrow. i just want to know what im missing and what do i need to do once the tank is on the stand to start the pluming process. just trying to get some advice/help either you can help me or you can't that simple. i wouldn't waste my time or anyone elses time asking any of this if i knew already.....
[/quote]

If your going to be so beligerant about it whatever. This is my last post in your threads.
good luck
[/quote]

why so emotional ?? this is just a bunch of guys that are into the same hobby , we all have different takes on how to do things i'm sure. example i wont call any names but a guy from my area wont sell me his p's because he thinks i don't have enough experience bla bla bla, i didn't bother to respond to him (his fish , his choice i won't beg for a guy to sell me a fish i cant eat and im not starving lol) , can't take things so personal johnny , besides you have given me great advice thanks. lighten up have a beer and post it's just the internet lol


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

I was trying to help you dude. If you are going to be doing PVC you need the tank on the stand so you can measure how long of a pipe you need.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

okay so basically here is what i have . the bigger one the 2'' seems to be glued in or really tight , i cant get it out. the 1 1/4'' i was able to twist off, i take it this is the bulkhead. so where do i go from here fellas?


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

as for fittings i think you only need the piece that threads into your output. and then a pipe down into your sump.

i remember you saying you were hoping you could go from the 2 pipes to one. i think you can and you will just need a T fitting.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

any diagram i could see would be excellent, i know you guys do a great job explaining it , but im a visual creature lol need to see pic to get a clear understanding them i will be good i think


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

The bulkhead appears to be a "shorty" version, or cut off... in the last picture, the left part, if you were to look at the surface thats sitting on the counter is is factory, or something thats cut off?

You will want to get a tube of aquarium silicone, and get those bulkheads re-glued and sealed up if they are good.










Ok the blue is your return line. You will need (approx) 3 90s, a 1" FPT thread x slip, and some locline fittings (a 1" MPT thread, a Y, and 2 6" sections with nozzles) this will help with flow adjustment.. You can order locline from marine depot, and i will get you part numbers in a sec.

The red is your drain. Now this is the hard part... For a FW aquarium, the best bet is a wet/dry with a drip tray and "fluffy" bio media such as scrubbies or bio balls. If this was my tank, and i was going to setup the "ultimate" filter i would buy 4 5 gallon buckets (2 with lids), and cut 3" off the bottom of 2 of them. Then, drill TONS of 1/4" holes in the bottom of the cut bucket bottoms.... this is your drip tray, and it spreads your drain water over the entire diameter of the bucket. You will want to drill 4 or 5 1" holes (or something smaller than your media) on 1/2 of the whole buckets side to allow water into the sump tank. THANKS TO HOMIE SEEDLESSONE FOR THIS VIDEO






After you have your cut buckets, and your holes in the complete buckets, you will need enough media to fill them up 3/4 of the way... you can order bio balls in bulk off ebay (dont get the small ones for nano tanks!) or find scrubbies locally... pile them in, and place the cut bucket bottoms on the top of the media.

I would Hardline my drain in 2" pvc, and then add a T and a 90 at the end to connect to the buckets... Seedless used spa flex, because of the external overflow box, but you have a built in, so i would make it more permanent. You could use 1' chunks of spa flex, off of your 2" PVC drain no problem, and that makes getting the lids off easy for cleaning.

The buckets cant sit on the bottom (as bio balls and scrubbies arent really great submerged, just with water flowing through them) so you will also need an eggcrate stand... easy project with some zip ties and a chunk of eggcrate.

Home deopt list:
Eggcrate (near flourescent lights)
Plumbing: 3 90s, a 1" FPT thread x slip for return, 8' stick of sch40 PVC (unsure of pipe size)
Drain: 8' stick of 2" sch 40 pvc, 3 90s, 1 T, 1 cap, 2 FPT reducers to nipple for spa flex (1 1/2"?) 2 MPT nipples for spa flex
2' 1 1/2" spa flex (blue and black color)
Small zip ties 
4 buckets, 2 lids
Aquarium silicone
PVC primer and glue
2 Hose clamps for spa flex onto nipple

(FPT= Female part threads, MPT= MALE part threads) ALSO buy WAY more parts than you need, its easier to return things, than make a trip for 1 stupid part!!!


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

So AEgir are you saying he should just use the 2" output? and seal the 1 1/4" one?


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> im pretty sure you will need to get your tank on the stand before you can start lol
> 
> call up them buddys!


im not asking anyone from this site to come help me move it. i'm asking what do i need to buy or whatever once they tank is positioned ? since it may be position anytime between today and tomorrow. i just want to know what im missing and what do i need to do once the tank is on the stand to start the pluming process. just trying to get some advice/help either you can help me or you can't that simple. i wouldn't waste my time or anyone elses time asking any of this if i knew already.....
[/quote]

Is there one or 2 overflows like the one pictured? What kind of return pump are you using? What special features would you like to incorporate (as in what do you really want to see when its done)?

I will draw you up a diagram if you can provide some more info for me









Im also going to need to see the bottom of the bulkheads... if your tank is sitting on the bottom right now something is wrong, bulkheads are 2" or so deep, and if they were cut off you will need to replace them.
[/quote]

yea i was able to get the 1 1/4 '' bulkhead to come off as you can see in the pic , the 2'' not luck. hopefully you can draw me up something so i can see what im dealing with exactly. would i still need to by a powerhead if i have a good pump ? i seen a 1200 gph earlier is that enough for a 180 gallon ? thanks really lost here on the pluming part of this diy project and i want to make it best i can. thanks


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

derek i think the 1200gph pump would be great for your tank.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> derek i think the 1200gph pump would be great for your tank.


Even if its 1200 GPH after head loss, it will be a bit short for this display.


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

really how much do you think?


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> really how much do you think?


so what the 1200 isn't enough ?

i also seen a 2000 but the guy said it may be way too much for a 180gal


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

the 75g sump is good he is saying you need a more powerful pump

can you do me a favor and measure bottom of your sump (where a pump would be) to the top of your tank


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> the 75g sump is good he is saying you need a more powerful pump
> 
> can you do me a favor and measure bottom of your sump (where a pump would be) to the top of your tank


57inches


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

K so for easy math just say 5 feet of head hieght.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> The bulkhead appears to be a "shorty" version, or cut off... in the last picture, the left part, if you were to look at the surface thats sitting on the counter is is factory, or something thats cut off?
> 
> You will want to get a tube of aquarium silicone, and get those bulkheads re-glued and sealed up if they are good.
> 
> ...


oh yea i know you know your stuff but please try to keep it pretty simple for me thanks lol . i just wont this to work properly and not have to worry about coming home and my living room is flooded and of couse i want a great filteration system. and is there anyway i can reduce the noise a sump makes since i hear they can be very noisy ??


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

the plan AEgir posted probly wouldnt be very noisey. the noise you will hear would probably be the output going back into your tank.

im waiting to find out what pump he recomends most i have looked at only have about 1000gph at 5' head hieght


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> the plan AEgir posted probly wouldnt be very noisey. the noise you will hear would probably be the output going back into your tank.


yea but that plan involves me getting rid of my existing 75 gallon and buying all new sump stuff also right? unless i misunderstood him


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

nope what he is talking about with the pails is setting them inside the 75g. and then you have your hoses or pipes from the tank going into the buckets where you can put your bio media. then the water goes through the bio media, out the bottom of the bucket then returned back into your tank


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> oh yea i know you know your stuff but please try to keep it pretty simple for me thanks lol . i just wont this to work properly and not have to worry about coming home and my living room is flooded and of couse i want a great filteration system. and is there anyway i can reduce the noise a sump makes since i hear they can be very noisy ??


This will be simple, easy to maintain, and completely silent. It will also be completely flood proof once we get it adjusted, and high and low water marks on the sump. This plan involves the same sump, but setting 2 "towers" of media inside (5 gal buckets) because the midea isnt efficen when submerged in water completely.

At most it will sound like a small trickle of water... I ran over 6000gph through a similar 2" drain and standpipe, with minimal noise.

BRB with sketch


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

getting over 1200GPH your getting into HUGE expensive pumps thats the only problem i see


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> getting over 1200GPH your getting into HUGE expensive pumps thats the only problem i see


Thats a big negative... you can find lightly used mag drive 24s for 50$, or there are tons of other options for 80 -100$ max (and thats a good pump, not a power hog)

My scanner is on the fritz tonight, and i dont want to get angry with it. I will scan that tomorrow for ya... But i got a good sketch for ya, that breaks everything down. This should be no problems, and a great DIY project overall!


----------



## bigshawn (Dec 29, 2005)

this is great info guys keep it coming


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> getting over 1200GPH your getting into HUGE expensive pumps thats the only problem i see


Thats a big negative... you can find lightly used mag drive 24s for 50$, or there are tons of other options for 80 -100$ max (and thats a good pump, not a power hog)

My scanner is on the fritz tonight, and i dont want to get angry with it. I will scan that tomorrow for ya... But i got a good sketch for ya, that breaks everything down. This should be no problems, and a great DIY project overall!
[/quote]

thanks im pretty sure your sketch will help me , and yea this diy project has been 1 hell of a challenge but, well worth it so far.


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

Ægir said:


> Flexible tubing is a death wish... i wont ever touch the stuff. I feel its the "lazy way out" of most projects.


How often do you hear things like this about cannister filters? They use plastic tubing and i have never once heard a complaint about the tubing leaking, or breaking. If you buy crappy tubing or dont attch it good enough thats the persons fault. Hard tubing looks nicer, but its more time consuming to plumb. Start by making some diagrams of possible setups. They dont need to be nice, but just where the tubing goes, where vlaves, disconnects are...


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

sean-820 said:


> Flexible tubing is a death wish... i wont ever touch the stuff. I feel its the "lazy way out" of most projects.


How often do you hear things like this about cannister filters? They use plastic tubing and i have never once heard a complaint about the tubing leaking, or breaking. If you buy crappy tubing or dont attch it good enough thats the persons fault. Hard tubing looks nicer, but its more time consuming to plumb. Start by making some diagrams of possible setups. They dont need to be nice, but just where the tubing goes, where vlaves, disconnects are...
[/quote]

Consitering a canister filter is pushing (XP3 = 350gph FX5= 900gph with NO HEAD OR MEDIA) and this pump will be pushing 2000gph after head loss, you are comparing apples to oranges here. I know you have seen how much line pressure a canister can create... try putting your thumb over the output, and then try that on a mag drive pump. I know you can use vinyl properly, but its actually more expensive, and requires harder to find parts... it also has a shorter life span.

Quality tubing is not cheap... you can get the clear stuff (which specifically says for low flow and pressure use) or you can find the nylon reinforced tubing. I would bet that the TOTAL cost of vynil is over 2x what rigid PVC is... i mean even this list of fittings i have is around 10$ + 2 8' sticks of PVC (not including the loc line nozzles which will be another 10$) and then you just need 2' of spa flex to hook it up. I am guessing for around 30$ this will be done in rigid, where as you would spend 20$ on tubing alone (prob more!)

You will NEVER have to worry about blow outs, you will never have to replace any plumbing, and you will never worry about "when this cheap tubing is going to go"...



















Oh, and add 1 True union thats the size of the return plumbing so you can remove your pump...

SB420 over and out


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

is the pump supposed to go back into the overflow?


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> is the pump supposed to go back into the overflow?


The pump doesnt go into the overflow, it goes up the overflow box, and into the display... its to keep most the plumbing hidden and utilize the existing hole in the overflow box.

Heres my DIY plumbing topic, should help you out some with the feel of PVC... 
Clicky


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> is the pump supposed to go back into the overflow?


It goes back up through the overflow, but theres usually loc line tubing or something that will take the return water over the overflow (or through a holle drilled in it) and then that tube is directed somewhere in the tank.

And agir, i am using nylon reinforced tubing and i agree the good stuff isnt cheap, but imo its convienient. Though my system is only 25g total so the cost isnt bad anyways.


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

I just think the tubing would be better easier for him to set up and more manuverable


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> I just think the tubing would be better easier for him to set up and more manuverable


There are 10 glued joints... this is about as simple as it gets... if you can use a tape measure, glue stick, and hack saw there is absolutely NO challenge to this project.

If he was making a manifold, with multiple returns and multiple drains then... i would think otherwise but its 1 return, and 1 drain we are talking... where is the conveinence in flex tubing, (its more expensive in the long run)? do you know what 2" flex will cost him for the drain line?

If hes doing things proper, in flex he will be spending atleast 50-70$


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

wow thanks really great feed back fellas . went to the fish store earlier and got what i thought was a 1 1/4 in bulk head replaced witha new one , wanted to bring in the other 1 that im pretty sure is a 2 inch but cant get it off the tank , any suggestions ? the guy i bought it off saw cut it so i will have to replace it some how. okay any also the guy showed me some flexible pvc piping and said its better then the pvc pipe because i wont have to use so many 90 degrees which makes me lose flow or something like that, just want you guys input. thanks.



Ægir said:


> Flexible tubing is a death wish... i wont ever touch the stuff. I feel its the "lazy way out" of most projects.


How often do you hear things like this about cannister filters? They use plastic tubing and i have never once heard a complaint about the tubing leaking, or breaking. If you buy crappy tubing or dont attch it good enough thats the persons fault. Hard tubing looks nicer, but its more time consuming to plumb. Start by making some diagrams of possible setups. They dont need to be nice, but just where the tubing goes, where vlaves, disconnects are...
[/quote]

which piping are you suggesting? the 1 i seen today was pvc pipe , but was a bit flexible and was white.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> which piping are you suggesting? the 1 i seen today was pvc pipe , but was a bit flexible and was white.


rigid, hard, normal schedule 40 PVC. Flex PVC doesnt glue well to normal PVC fittings (90s Ts bulkheads) so it should only be used in situations you have NO choice but to use it... such as long sweeping corners, slight curves etc.

Lots of people use flex PVC, and vynil tubing so the choice is ultimately yours. I would recommend plumbing the thing once, with rigid schedule 40 PVC and forgetting about it. Yes, it will take slightly more time to cut, and get things aligned before gluing... but in the long run it will never need replacement or magically start leaking. Any time you move flex PVC connected to something SOLID like your bulkhead and aquarium, you are weakening the glue and working the fitting loose. think of bending a clothes hanger over and over and over in the same place... what happens?

You should be able to take that list i wrote on the scanned drawing, and have everything you need to complete the project. the one thing i didnt add is a TRUE UNION (not repair coupler) for your return pump, making it easy to remove and not cut plumbing. I would get a few spare parts just to be sure you dont have to make another trip.

Note, flex PVC is more expensive as well... fittings like 90s are 50 cents or less


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> which piping are you suggesting? the 1 i seen today was pvc pipe , but was a bit flexible and was white.


rigid, hard, normal schedule 40 PVC. Flex PVC doesnt glue well to normal PVC fittings (90s Ts bulkheads) so it should only be used in situations you have NO choice but to use it... such as long sweeping corners, slight curves etc.

Lots of people use flex PVC, and vynil tubing so the choice is ultimately yours. I would recommend plumbing the thing once, with rigid schedule 40 PVC and forgetting about it. Yes, it will take slightly more time to cut, and get things aligned before gluing... but in the long run it will never need replacement or magically start leaking. Any time you move flex PVC connected to something SOLID like your bulkhead and aquarium, you are weakening the glue and working the fitting loose. think of bending a clothes hanger over and over and over in the same place... what happens?

You should be able to take that list i wrote on the scanned drawing, and have everything you need to complete the project. the one thing i didnt add is a TRUE UNION (not repair coupler) for your return pump, making it easy to remove and not cut plumbing. I would get a few spare parts just to be sure you dont have to make another trip.

Note, flex PVC is more expensive as well... fittings like 90s are 50 cents or less
[/quote]

okay , i will be buying the parts tuesday morning,so most likely tuesday morning or tuesday night i will be asking you more question to get this thing running. hey do you know how i can get the 2'' bulkhead off? having trouble getting it off

what about filter to go on the pvc pipe? and control vales and something to help with the noise ? and what kind of glue ? how long does the glue take to dry also ?


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> okay , i will be buying the parts tuesday morning,so most likely tuesday morning or tuesday night i will be asking you more question to get this thing running. hey do you know how i can get the 2'' bulkhead off? having trouble getting it off
> 
> what about filter to go on the pvc pipe? and control vales and something to help with the noise ? and what kind of glue ? how long does the glue take to dry also ?


I will be around man... no problems

First off, the bulkhead is prob just siliconed in so you might have to beat on it a little bit. Is the nut on the outside of the tank stuck or just the bulkhead itself?

You dont need a filter to go on the PVC pipe... we will be building a "durso" standpipe for your overflow box. The glue is normal PVC glue, and PVC primer... you prime each piece of pipe, and the fitting, wait 20 seconds, apply glue to both sections you are connecting. Then slide them together till your marks line up and hold for 30 seconds. The glue takes 12 hours to cure fully, but in emergency situations i have glued and waited 2 hours and used it.

Also... while you are doing the plumbing, its possible to fill your display tank most of the way up and get a cycle going with a coctail shrimp.... as long as you keep the water BELOW the inner overflow box. Then when the plumbing is done and dry, you can fill the sump and turn it on. If you have an extra HOB filter, that would be great until the sump is running.


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

AEgir He is in a rush to get his fish in the 180. what your saying is he can fill the tank up untill a few inches below the overflow and put his fish in without getting in the way of the plumbing?

he has 9 pygos in a 46g so they need to go in quick lol.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> AEgir He is in a rush to get his fish in the 180. what your saying is he can fill the tank up untill a few inches below the overflow and put his fish in without getting in the way of the plumbing?
> 
> he has 9 pygos in a 46g so they need to go in quick lol.


The only reason he couldnt fill his tank right now and get a cycle going is it may be hard to remove that last bulkhead and may need to tip the tank on its side. If he gets that out, installing the new bulkheads will be no problem from the top, and the nut will go on easy under the stand.

As long as the water level in the display is slightly lower than the top of the internal overflow box, theres no problems with filling it up and starting a cycle with a shrimp, and HOB filter with some used media. If the water flows over the top of the overflow, it will just spill out the bulkhead holes onto the ground. As long as its below the top of the box, its completely contained and good to go.

The only plumbing that wont be done from under the stand, is the durso, and return plumbing inside the overflow box... and the drain will be all friction fit with no glue for easy cleaning. As long as hes not slinging glue everywhere, it will be fine! Then after 24 hours of glue drying, he can fill the sump, fire up the pump, and water will start spilling over...

A couple things i thought of: (yeah, i think about other peoples projects in my spare time so what)
You will need to support that drain line in like 2 places, a large zip tie and a screw under your stand should work great.
You need to order new bulkheads, and loc line fittings (will get part numbers in a sec)
You need a return pump... 
It couldnt hurt to fill it up mostly, and get your cycle going 24 or 48 hours sooner...

The real question... do you trust your stand enough to have all that water hanging over your head while you are working?


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

So derek I would fill your tank up to like 5" under the overflow and get your P's in there.


----------



## Winkyee (Feb 17, 2003)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-pets-accessorie...QAdIdZ187802273
> 
> lol a little to late


He needed 72x24 ? its a 180 isn't it?


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

Edited.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> AEgir He is in a rush to get his fish in the 180. what your saying is he can fill the tank up untill a few inches below the overflow and put his fish in without getting in the way of the plumbing?
> 
> he has 9 pygos in a 46g so they need to go in quick lol.


The only reason he couldnt fill his tank right now and get a cycle going is it may be hard to remove that last bulkhead and may need to tip the tank on its side. If he gets that out, installing the new bulkheads will be no problem from the top, and the nut will go on easy under the stand.

As long as the water level in the display is slightly lower than the top of the internal overflow box, theres no problems with filling it up and starting a cycle with a shrimp, and HOB filter with some used media. If the water flows over the top of the overflow, it will just spill out the bulkhead holes onto the ground. As long as its below the top of the box, its completely contained and good to go.

The only plumbing that wont be done from under the stand, is the durso, and return plumbing inside the overflow box... and the drain will be all friction fit with no glue for easy cleaning. As long as hes not slinging glue everywhere, it will be fine! Then after 24 hours of glue drying, he can fill the sump, fire up the pump, and water will start spilling over...

A couple things i thought of: (yeah, i think about other peoples projects in my spare time so what)
You will need to support that drain line in like 2 places, a large zip tie and a screw under your stand should work great.
You need to order new bulkheads, and loc line fittings (will get part numbers in a sec)
You need a return pump... 
It couldnt hurt to fill it up mostly, and get your cycle going 24 or 48 hours sooner...

The real question... do you trust your stand enough to have all that water hanging over your head while you are working?
[/quote]

yea i trust in the stand 100% well 99.9% lol . i just got the 2'' off today, was a lot of snow here today so couldn't search from the 2'' the way i wanted to , checked a few places tho and no luck with finding the 2''. i will be buying the pvc in the morning to start the set up.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> yea i trust in the stand 100% well 99.9% lol . i just got the 2'' off today, was a lot of snow here today so couldn't search from the 2'' the way i wanted to , checked a few places tho and no luck with finding the 2''. i will be buying the pvc in the morning to start the set up.


You can order your bulkheads from marinedepot.com, under plumbing parts on the left. MEASURE YOUR HOLES and double check... i find its easier to measure them by using the 1" mark on a tape measure as 0, and going from there subtracting 1" from the final measurement. Its more precise than the metal end on a tape for sure!

along with some locline parts for your return... its funny this 6" will be more than the PVC fittings somehow... but badass in the long run.

LL1319 (3/4 " mpt) NOTE we will need to change your return FPT to 3/4" not 1" like the list. 
LL1321 (3/4" Y)
LL1311 (loc line 6") x2
LL1315 (flair nozzle) x2

FILL the tank up and get it cycling while you wait for the plumbing!! its a massive head start


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> yea i trust in the stand 100% well 99.9% lol . i just got the 2'' off today, was a lot of snow here today so couldn't search from the 2'' the way i wanted to , checked a few places tho and no luck with finding the 2''. i will be buying the pvc in the morning to start the set up.


You can order your bulkheads from marinedepot.com, under plumbing parts on the left. MEASURE YOUR HOLES and double check... i find its easier to measure them by using the 1" mark on a tape measure as 0, and going from there subtracting 1" from the final measurement. Its more precise than the metal end on a tape for sure!

along with some locline parts for your return... its funny this 6" will be more than the PVC fittings somehow... but badass in the long run.

LL1319 (3/4 " mpt) NOTE we will need to change your return FPT to 3/4" not 1" like the list. 
LL1321 (3/4" Y)
LL1311 (loc line 6") x2
LL1315 (flair nozzle) x2

FILL the tank up and get it cycling while you wait for the plumbing!! its a massive head start
[/quote]

okay i will find the 2'' tomorrow some how some way for sure. so do i still fill my 18- gallon ? and another question . how do i fill this tank ? i live in a condo so i have no water hose to just pour the water in and i doubt i will hand fill 180 buckets with my 1 gallon bucket that will be insane . and suggestions? damm im almost there cant wait !!


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

lol i hand bomb all my tanks. you wont be filling the whole 180g yet. only like 120 maybe. because you cant go over your overflow.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> lol i hand bomb all my tanks. you wont be filling the whole 180g yet. only like 120 maybe. because you cant go over your overflow.


lmao okay so 150 trips , my wife gonna think i'm a retard for sure lol, anyways i may be moving soon say april so how would i get all this water out ? just a off topic quick question


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> lol i hand bomb all my tanks. you wont be filling the whole 180g yet. only like 120 maybe. because you cant go over your overflow.


lmao okay so 150 trips , my wife gonna think i'm a retard for sure lol, anyways i may be moving soon say april so how would i get all this water out ? just a off topic quick question
[/quote]

Gravity my friend... a garden hose out the window or better yet, you use your return pump on a garden hose (all mag drive pumps are 1"mpt outlet) and PUMP THAT SHIZ OUT

Thats what i use for my water changes is a mag 12 pump, on 4' of garden hose...

Also, on your part list is 5 gal buckets... i have packed 220 gals of water from a driveway, across a house before... just do it


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

yea with a water change I siphon the water out my door usually. then I have a 5g bucket that was used for those water dispensers. and I do all 5 of my tanks with it.


----------



## Us And Them (Dec 4, 2008)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> yea with a water change I siphon the water out my door usually. then I have a 5g bucket that was used for those water dispensers. and I do all 5 of my tanks with it.


Just Fill it with a 5 Gallon Pail , or a Garden hose from Your sink.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Hey man, i am around... might have to leave for 20 min but i will be back shortly if i dont answer. Hold tight and i will help you out!


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> Hey man, i am around... might have to leave for 20 min but i will be back shortly if i dont answer. Hold tight and i will help you out!


aight cool , i will be back in 2hours . gota step out myself for a quick bit. would be nice to get this thing up and running tonight, got a bunch of pipes , pvv flex and abs pipes , got a new pump to , and finally found that 2inch bulkhead, i hope i have enough to get this thing running tonight, and got some bio balls to, got the primer and the glue also and the union vale hoping i'm not missing much now. I'M READY !


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> Hey man, i am around... might have to leave for 20 min but i will be back shortly if i dont answer. Hold tight and i will help you out!


aight cool , i will be back in 2hours . gota step out myself for a quick bit. would be nice to get this thing up and running tonight, got a bunch of pipes , pvv flex and abs pipes , got a new pump to , and finally found that 2inch bulkhead, i hope i have enough to get this thing running tonight, and got some bio balls to, got the primer and the glue also and the union vale hoping i'm not missing much now. I'M READY !
[/quote]

SICK, just let me know when you are back. I could add you on MSN or something to make things easier, or skype?

I dont doubt that we can get this done tonight, but you wont have it running (atleast the sump part... you can fill the display and start the cycle!) because of glue dry time... not worth blowing a fitting or getting un-cured glue in your water and killing everything.

What kind of pump did you get?


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Ægir said:


> Hey man, i am around... might have to leave for 20 min but i will be back shortly if i dont answer. Hold tight and i will help you out!


aight cool , i will be back in 2hours . gota step out myself for a quick bit. would be nice to get this thing up and running tonight, got a bunch of pipes , pvv flex and abs pipes , got a new pump to , and finally found that 2inch bulkhead, i hope i have enough to get this thing running tonight, and got some bio balls to, got the primer and the glue also and the union vale hoping i'm not missing much now. I'M READY !
[/quote]

SICK, just let me know when you are back. I could add you on MSN or something to make things easier, or skype?

I dont doubt that we can get this done tonight, but you wont have it running (atleast the sump part... you can fill the display and start the cycle!) because of glue dry time... not worth blowing a fitting or getting un-cured glue in your water and killing everything.

What kind of pump did you get?
[/quote]

yea true that , mann i'm excited , it's been a long time coming ........gota see how im going to get all that water in there to my nearest water isnt so close to the tank, lol anyways for the most part i want to get the pluming part out the way. i don't have msn and don't know what skype is. i will be back 10pm sharp est tho if you are around.


----------



## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Aight man, i think its 10 your time... just after. I am here, so drop me a PM or reply here and we will figure out what to do.


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

Dmackey is late for the appointment lol


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> Dmackey is late for the appointment lol


lol na wasnt late


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

You start yet? im going to tag along


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

Johnny_Zanni said:


> You start yet? im going to tag along


yea just getting started now


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

here are the peice egir


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

yup


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

ok


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

you may want to remove the metal handles from the buckets. Doy you have to build some sort of stand for you buckets. Pvc, eggcrate and zip ties should work well


----------



## Johnny_Zanni (Nov 8, 2009)

Yea him and AEgir are doing it in the shoutbox. He has eggcrate for the stands.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

so ideally ?


----------



## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

dmackey said:


> so ideally ?


Looks like you have the idea. You will may need another pipe going down so it doesn't spash depending on how hight the buckets go. You may want to do a little maifold or somethign there to evenly distribute the water without a ton of splashing


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

preglue check


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

the adjustment


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

refixed


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

glued


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

ok ok


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

media


----------



## Soul Assassin (Nov 21, 2006)

dmackey said:


> media


make sure they dont have any chemicals added


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

here is where we at now..


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

the green line shows when the bio balls are the scrubbers sit just on top of the green line. drip tray is 7inches down inside bucket


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

AND THE BLUE STOOL ITS ON HAS HOLES IN THE SEAT PART. THIS SET UP GIVES ME 2 INCHES OF BIO BALLS UNDERWATER AND 8 INCHES OUT THE WATER IF I DRILL THE BUCKETS FROM THE BOTTOM OR 1/2 INCH UP AROUND THE SIDES. ALSO GIVES MY 2 INCH DRAIN 2-3 INCHES FROM THE DRIP TRAY.


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

glued !! just add fish and water i hope lol


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

ok


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

so where at?


----------



## dmackey (Jan 26, 2010)

is this thing running right or what ? makes a loud slurping noise .


----------

