# MY 135!!!!!



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

My arow has these funny looking things on him. looks like he scraped his skin alot! ill try to get a pic.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

k im not going o resize so you can get the best look.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

he rubs his face on the glass alot. it that why it looks this?


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

Damn it!

My arow looks like sh*t

My motoros are not eating and one has death curl! came with white stingers, never ate and now have the curl that wont go away and they will die!

My ph is too high an i was told to get a decreaser and now im told it will stress the fish out more!

What the f*ck!!! im screwed! Im never buying exspesive fish again if my marble motoros die!


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

HELP!!!!!!!


----------



## aznkon (Apr 27, 2004)

a little trick i picked up for high ph is lemon juice. i had some discus owners that told me that a cheap and quick way to lower ph is to add a few drops. i forget the amount so i'm really sorry about that. but since u do have a 135 u could mess around with it more and not have it too bad for the fish.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

im more pissed and worried abou this death curl. i cant lose these guys. the cost so much!


----------



## aznkon (Apr 27, 2004)

sorry about ur rays man...i never raised rays so i don't have any experience with them. all i can suggest is going online tryign to find out the causes of death curl and then adding a little aqarium salt to reduce teh stress then countering whatever it is that's making ur rays do that...goodluck with everything.


----------



## DPM (Apr 21, 2004)

Cant help with the rays, but my aro gets those after a vigorous night of trying to jump through the tank lid. I think they are scrapes from the plastic edges on the underside of the lid...they usually heal up in a few days or so. That sucks about your rays..I just had an eel that I spent 60 bones for jump out of the tank and die..discouraging as hell. Good Luck...I hope everything works out. D.


----------



## con man (Mar 7, 2004)

my guess is u have access waste cuz i can see the 1/4inch worms which is probley y ur rays rnt doin well they need nearluy perfect water and it seems like urs has dispated quite a bit (no offense)

rays prefer 0 ppm of nitrate nitrite and amonia so id check ur paramaters and get something to bring those down or ur gonna loose ur rays


----------



## Atlanta Braves Baby! (Mar 12, 2003)

wish i could help but i dont know anything about rays dude.


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

I get those worms in my tanks from time to time (small white guys that stick to the glass and free float but they don't actually harm the fish). They are caused by an excess of nitrates. A heavy water change schedule can decrease and eventually get rid of them.

As far as altering your pH, you really need to know what the buffering capacity of your tank water is. That lemon juice trick won't work for crap if you have hard water. It will change for a while and then just go right back to where it is. I have a problem with overly soft water and so have to add crushed coral to harden it enough so that it doesn't drop like a stone. Exactly how high is your pH?

Also, I told you that the white stinger was nothing to worry about, especially if there's no fungus on it. The fleshy material that covers the stinger probably prematurely rubbed off in shipping or something. As long as it didn't cause an infection (which you would see), then it's fine.

I'm thinking that you are having water quality issues. Please provide a full list of parameters including ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, carbonate hardness, pH, and temperature. It must be off if it's affecting your Arowana too.

I hate to see people get discouraged and then give up on Rays altogether because of a bad experience. If it doesn't go well, use it and learn from it, but don't give up. Start out with something cheaper next time. I've had my first Ray for almost two years now and I bought him on a whim without knowing diddly squat about them. I've only lost three Rays and I know the reason why each one died. It was my own stupidity (except for one that came with a nasty internal parasite problem and I didn't catch it in time). I learned from the experience and moved on. I won't make those mistakes ever again, but I certainly didn't throw the towel in and give up.


----------



## Peacock (Feb 23, 2004)

dracofish said:


> I get those worms in my tanks from time to time (small white guys that stick to the glass and free float but they don't actually harm the fish). They are caused by an excess of nitrates. A heavy water change schedule can decrease and eventually get rid of them.
> 
> As far as altering your pH, you really need to know what the buffering capacity of your tank water is. That lemon juice trick won't work for crap if you have hard water. It will change for a while and then just go right back to where it is. I have a problem with overly soft water and so have to add crushed coral to harden it enough so that it doesn't drop like a stone. Exactly how high is your pH?
> 
> ...


These "worms" feed on excess food, not NO3.









Draco is correct.. we need a list of your parameters and general caretaking precautions.


----------



## etb (Nov 6, 2003)

Hey danny did you go get a test yet no one can help you with out the test results.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

yes i got a test kit. ill post them later.my son is here and i have to ddeal with him.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

yes i got a test kit. ill post them later.my son is here and i have to ddeal with him.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

ok here it is....

nitrite is at 0.25 or under

ammonia is at 0.25 or under

ph is at 7.4


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

pic


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

god i fill like suck a newbie. and an ass! man i hope i dont lose my ray.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

temp 82


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

hes losing color now.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

i guess this should be moved to Disease, Parasite, and Injury


----------



## lemmywinks (Jan 25, 2004)

Dude that sucks









hope they get better soon


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

You didn't say what the nitrAtes are.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

i tested eveything my kit has.


----------



## Judazzz (Jan 13, 2003)

I don't know much about rays and arowana's, but here's my input, based on what to do in a similar situation with a piranha tank...

Did you have detectable nitrItes and ammonia before? I mean, I assume the tank was properly cycled with zero nitrItes and ammonia, and detectable nitrAtes.
I think what caused this is either food left-overs you overlooked, or a filtration system that is unable to cope with the bioload - nitrItes and ammonia don't re-appear without a reason...

What I would advice you to do is daily small water changes (20-25%) to keep nitrIte and ammonia levels within acceptable levels, and to add 2 or 3 tablespoons of salt to the tank (to avoid the effects of nitrIte poisoning - *I don't know if stingrays and arowana's tolerate salt, so check first!*)
Until nitrItes and ammonia are back at zero, don't feed your fish (or, if necessary, only small amounts), to avoid continous high ammonia levels, and the inevitable nitrIte spike afterwards. Also, you may have a look at your filtration system and see if it's good enough for the tank's current inhabitants.

Good luck, and I hope everything works out...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

I am running a penguin 330 an a AC500 (the new 110). 
i do water changes once a week. i was told to do 50% so that what i do. i never over feed them and always take out the leftovers. my motoros are not eating anyway.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

i have had them for about two weeks now


----------



## timmy (Mar 29, 2004)

Was your tank cycled. I am not to sure you are sure whay "cycle" means. The ammonia and the nitrites should be zero and the natrates should be seen, that means your tank is cycled, but you have both ammonia and nitrites so mybe your tank wasn't proprtly cycled


----------



## Lonald (Jan 10, 2004)

hope they get better


----------



## Peacock (Feb 23, 2004)

do a 30% water change.. boos up that temp to 85.. add salt.

turn off the god damn lights allready..

your tank is waaaay over stocked.. especialy for rays, this is why you water quality is going to sh*t.

hurry the hell up, tell your child he has to wait.. these fish need you now.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

i did a 35% water change today and a 50% two days ago. added amquel again and i ran out of salt yesterday. i have heard table salf is ok. true? how much to add? my tank has been up and running (cycled) for over two months.


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

I think you need more filtration on that tank. I run 3 Emp 400's on just a 75 gallon. It's overstocked, but the water quality is pristine. I think underfiltration was the downfall for your tank, especially for one that's heavily stocked.

Don't turn up the temperature. Don't go nuts with the salt.

Get a nitrAte test kit. Anyone that keeps Rays should have a test for everything.

Others have asked and you haven't answered yet...HOW LONG HAS THE TANK BEEN COMPLETELY UP AND RUNNING WITH FISH IN IT? Was is FULLY cycled before adding those Rays? Fully cycled means that the ammonia has spiked and come down, followed by nitrites, and finally nitrates.


----------



## Peacock (Feb 23, 2004)

boosting the temp up will spark bacteria growth.. it will also help the fish..

why did you say not to bring the temp up draco?


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

Peacock said:


> boosting the temp up will spark bacteria growth.. it will also help the fish..
> 
> why did you say not to bring the temp up draco?


Because on Pfish someone recommended he raise the temp to 86, which would stress the Ray out further. Jon was actually the one to say not to do it:

_changing anything harshly will stress the ray and 86 degrees is way too hot_


----------



## Peacock (Feb 23, 2004)

interesting, especialy sence this is jon saying it.


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

I think the reasoning behind it is that changing the Ray's environment right now (other than upping the water quality through water changes) would probably place too much stress on it. 86 degrees is a big jump, even if done slowly. When a Ray is sick you want to make as little changes as possible...just clean water and walk away.

I keep mine at 80, BTW.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

thanx guys. should i do a water change again today? if so how much?


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

Its a sad day today.









Found him like this...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

....









male.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

Well guys i tried and it just happen way too fast. Better luck next time i guess. My female is looking ok but so was the male till a few days ago. We'll see what happens.

My Hystix looks great as usual and my Clown Knife is fine.

My Silver Arowana is looking all shagy! Maybe some scrapes but i dont think so. looks like white string worms or something. i cant get a good pic of him cause he is so fast. ill try but i dont think i could.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

anyone know what to do with a dead ray?


----------



## lemmywinks (Jan 25, 2004)

that sucks dude


----------



## mrwilson99 (Jul 12, 2003)




----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

Thanx Dave.

I have had alot of people tell me that. I was even told not to get them from other members cause Pedro just gets them and sells them. Never acclimated them.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

What are these white worm looking things on my arowana!? They are on my Green Sunfish too!


----------



## Judazzz (Jan 13, 2003)

I'm very sorry about your loss, man...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

Thanx Judazzz. I'm sorry too. Those rays are alot of money.


----------



## etb (Nov 6, 2003)

Sorry for your loss Danny . Now all you can do is try to get your tank straitened out and try to get the other one to start eating.


----------



## lemmywinks (Jan 25, 2004)

badforthesport said:


> What are these white worm looking things on my arowana!? They are on my Green Sunfish too!


 when did you get your sunfish.... sounds to me like you got a wild sunfish that gave your arrowana some worms that it has...


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

yup. I added melfix again. what are these worms and what harm can they do?


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

i got the sun fish right before all this started happening.


----------



## lemmywinks (Jan 25, 2004)

badforthesport said:


> i got the sun fish right before all this started happening.


 .... he probly had some sort of parasite on him.

just wondering. but did you quarantine the sunfish before you put him in your 135g?


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

badforthesport said:


> anyone know what to do with a dead ray?


 Ummm, bury???


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

dracofish said:


> badforthesport said:
> 
> 
> > anyone know what to do with a dead ray?
> ...


 trashcan he went.


----------



## stinkyfish (Jan 21, 2004)

badforthesport said:


> ...


Does anyone know what caused the white area on the edge of the disc? Is this caused by water quality or being picked on by another fish/ray??


----------



## Kory (Jun 5, 2003)

That wild sunfish might have given your tank some sort of disease. You should always quarantine them before adding them into your tank.


----------



## badforthesport (Jan 8, 2004)

live and learn.


----------



## Atlanta Braves Baby! (Mar 12, 2003)

man that really sucks dude.


----------



## Peacock (Feb 23, 2004)

Only buy rays from Webber or Jon. Is this not common knowledge?

your tanks water quality is more then likely the reason.. And the fact you added wild UNquarantine fish!

i think a little more experience was/is needed..


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

The Sunfish could have also played a part...especially with the white/damaged looking parts of the disc. I used to have a couple of those guys and they rivaled any nasty Cichlid I've ever seen for aggressiveness.


----------

