# PH problems, low



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

I have a 125 gallon planted tank w/ RBP's (live plants, rbp's, driftwood, rocks)

and a

44 gallon cichlid tank w/ only fake decor

the PH is the same in each, in between 4 and 5, i know, its low

Why is it so damn low?
The tap water is right around 7-7.5, but after i put the water in the tanks, it seems to lower.
I've been using PH up, and its raises it for a few, but then goes back to 4-5....???


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

First you wanna put this in the water chemistry forums but no biggie I'm sure.I have looked all over and have found no simular situation at all.I also cannot think honestly that they would be able to survive in such acidic p.h allthough not a 100% positive on that front.Are you sure your testing correctly,water changes alone should bring it up.Is there anyway that any substance or material can get into the tank. Water changes done with the same bucket that is also solely for that purpose.Rinsing test equipment and using recent chemicals for it and not ones that are five years old.Never drop them into something or they were left in the dishwasher,etc.When did it drop,has it allways been like this,if it did drop what was the time period in between tests and what was the result on both ends? I will continue to look for ya and see what I can dig up.


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

Also what are your other levels like,I know a high nitrate level can cause p.h to drop sharply. It does'nt kill your fish as quick but adds to stress.So please post temp,ammonia,nh3,nh4 levels if you can.


----------



## cobrafox46 (Jun 2, 2008)

As ******* said, post your water params. I am pretty sure if they are out of whack your PH can be real crazy.


----------



## sandman503 (Feb 10, 2009)

what is a good PH # ?


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

sandman503 said:


> what is a good PH # ?


Ideal for habitat replication is 6.2-6.4,i know alot of guys including myself though that house them in pretty high compared to that.My p.h is around 7.6 -8.2, I just allow the P's to assimilate to that instead of fighting to keep it down continuously and subjecting the fish to a yo-yo of p.h params


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

Ok, I had to buy a new tester kit cause I ran out of strips....this is an estimated close range, since colors are hard to match sometime...

Nitrate - 100ish 
Nitrite - 0 
GH - 150ish
Chlorine - 0
KH - 20ish
PH - ranges between 4-5 on average
Ammonia - 3.0ish

Both of my tanks always measure exactly the same, nitrates, ammonia, kh, and ph all seem to be off and its been like this for some time.

All my fish are eating fine and not acting weird, they seem healthy, but I know the water isnt.

HOW DO I FIX IT???

Ive been doin a good bit of water changes, and nothing seems to change...


----------



## Plowboy (Apr 9, 2008)

Ammonia is way to high, and nitrates are pretty lofty too! Most people here don't use test strips they use this. Get a test done at a LFS or something because I'm doubting your test kits results.

You have to get that ammonia down more then you have to worry about the PH IMO. The ammo could be too high because you don't have enough filter, your overfeeding, your tank isnt cycled, or your test kit is full of sh*t. To get the nitrates down below 40ppm you just need to do more water changes. Hopefully after you get those in check your PH will level out.


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

I agree your K.H is really high that would be counter productive to p.H drop.As well your g.h level is at a level that is consistint with a alkaline reading being the norm. It could be filtration as excess waste present in the tank can produce carbonic acid which can drop P.H. With that the nitrifiers that convert ammonia to nitrate are stunted in ability to reproduce at that p.h so that explains your level being so high.Do me one more favor test just straight tap water that you would use for water changes.As well whats your filtration and on what size of tank. With your tap water do everything you would do to prep it for a actual water change,so add whatever additive you would use normally.Post those things and we shall see if it's your testing or filtering.


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

so, i just did another water change...but here is my tank info first...

125 gallon
Marineland magnum 350 filter & fluval 204 filter

The water I was putting in for my water change seemed fine, everything normal and a ph right around 7.0, I then tested the water after the tank being fully filled again and this is what I got.....according to my test strips anyways!

nitrate - 40ish
nitrite - 0
GH - 75ish
chroline - 0
KH - 30ish
PH - 6.5ish
ammonia - 1.0ish needs to be lower i think still

So everything looks way better now, but i bet when i test the tank water tom, it'll be back to where it was before my water change tonight.

Should i get rid of the fluval 204 and add a bigger filter?


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

Only thing I forgot to add is to aerate the water is one way to raise the p.h. gradually.So grab a bubbler or set your outakes on your filters to agitate your surface area or even both.


----------



## Plowboy (Apr 9, 2008)

The 204 and the 350 is a bit light on filtration IMO. I guess i would upgrade the 204 since i think that's where the ammo issue came from.

Let us know what the readings are tomorrow, and GL.


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

That reading makes way more sense man, your ammonia should be zero but those readings are way more sensible and are not too bad to work with now.Everything else seems ok and your ammonia level should drop within a couple of days.


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

The filters keep the water crystal clear, i should still go bigger?

fluval 204 is rated around 40 gallons and the marineland 350 is rated around 100, so 140 for my 125 gallon. I should still go bigger?


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

350 is excellent at mechanical filtration but would be strained a bit to keep up with that tank size by it's lonesome.The fluval could be upgraded and probably should.Make sure you get something with three stage filtration if at all possible.The pre-filter stage in that type of filter is what makes it worth the while and is much more affective at ammonia convertion.


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

nixrsix said:


> The filters keep the water crystal clear, i should still go bigger?
> 
> fluval 204 is rated around 40 gallons and the marineland 350 is rated around 100, so 140 for my 125 gallon. I should still go bigger?


Cystal clear is not the problem at the moment,the amount of water exchanged through filter media is what ya want.My 100 gallon has a flow rate of 550gallons/hr filtration.Not only that but the quality of it is very important.Thats the bonus of a 3 stage cannister filter along with your 350,as well it can also run when gravel vacing and water changing as well as tank redecoration.While that was still filtering you set the 350 to the water polish cartridge and your good as gravy.


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

so, keep the marineland and what other canister should i look at to replace the fluval 204?


----------



## Plowboy (Apr 9, 2008)

I love my ehiem 2217's. Adding one of them should be sufficient, and when i got mine they only cost $130. It never hurts to go bigger though.

And yes, keep the 350 for sure


----------



## RedneckR0nin (Nov 5, 2008)

That whole thread just shows what I love about this site more than anything. A seemingly impossible question with facts that do not lead to the obvious answers broken down and made sensible and informitive to the member inquiring in a quick and a translated manner that leads to the inquiring member learning the info requested and how informed and responsive this site can be.Thx for the post nixsix this one was fun to look into and hoping you got what you were looking for. As well as hoping we figured out your riddle and on our way to solving your problem.


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

awesome, thanks guys, this site is pretty chill, i appreciate the help. You and plow know your sh*t for sure, i'll get there sooner or later! I owe ya both a beer! cheers!


----------



## Plowboy (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks! And glad we could help.

Was your Ph still in line with where it should be this morning?


----------



## Dr. Giggles (Oct 18, 2003)

Your kH seems kind of low. Anything under 89 ppm is going to give you fits with a dropiing pH unless you add additional weekly water changes to the mix, limestone, or crushed coral.


----------



## nixrsix (Sep 3, 2008)

ph dropped from about 7 down to 6 after 24 hours, im going to do the limestone and crushed coral deal. Can I add limestone dust buffer somehow? I have some of it on hand but not sure if or how to use it. If not, whats the cheaper way of the ways to go? I'm also pricing out another cannister filter so I can get better filtering going on.


----------



## Dr. Giggles (Oct 18, 2003)

nixrsix said:


> ph dropped from about 7 down to 6 after 24 hours, im going to do the limestone and crushed coral deal. Can I add limestone dust buffer somehow? I have some of it on hand but not sure if or how to use it. If not, whats the cheaper way of the ways to go? I'm also pricing out another cannister filter so I can get better filtering going on.


Not familiar with that type of limestone but if its used for aquariums I see why not. I would go with the same dosage as Arm & Hammer Baking Soda (1 tablespoon for every 50 gallons). Just dissolve it in a cup and pour into tank. Test pH shortly after to see any difference.


----------

