# Red Tailed Boa



## zrreber (Mar 8, 2005)

I need to know everything i need to know about taking care of them from tank setup and such to food and such the one im looking into getting is about 2 feet right now so i would need to know everything you all could tell me about this snake. Thanks for the help and info


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## redbellypacu (Sep 21, 2003)

zrreber said:


> I need to know everything i need to know about taking care of them from tank setup and such to food and such the one im looking into getting is about 2 feet right now so i would need to know everything you all could tell me about this snake. Thanks for the help and info
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Common Name: Boa - Colombian
Other Common Names: Boa Constrictor, Columbian Boa Constrictor, Common Boa Constrictor

Scientific Name: Boa constrictor imperator

Group: Boa

Origin or Range: South America

Relative Size: Larger Than Average 
(as compared to other snakes)

Average Lifespan: 30 years

Compatibility: Average

Animal Description: 
The Colombian Boa, also known as the Boa Constrictor, Colombian Boa Constrictor, Common Boa Constrictor, or Colombian Redtail, is a common pet store boa. They are regularly kept by hobbyists worldwide. Though they are most commonly labeled as Colombian Red-tails, this name is incorrect and misleading, as they are not true "Redtail" boas.

The Colombian Boa is relatively non-aggressive and is usually quite easy to handle. In some parts of the world they are kept as pets to control rodent populations. Wild Colombian Boas are largely terrestrial snakes, though they also have arboreal tendencies. They are often found living in hollow logs, and mammal burrows. In the wild, their diet includes prey such as rodents, birds, iguanas, and monkeys. The Colombian Boa is not venomous, rather it suffocates its prey with its powerful body by constriction, hence the name. Their jaws can disjoint, which enables it to swallow animals with bodies much larger in diameter than its head.

The Colombian Boa is a primitive snake that closely resembles its lizard ancestors anatomically. The Colombian Boa is often called a Red-tail Boa because of the reddish brown markings on its tail, but in actuality the Red-tail Boas are a different variety of Boa Constrictor. A true Red Tailed Boa is generally much more expensive than the Colombian Boa. The Colombian Boa can be shades of grey or tan and has 15 to 20 dark reddish-brown or brown irregular rectangular bands on its back (often referred to as saddles) and a maroon or brownish tail. Though there have been reports of specimens 15 or more feet long, these are unreliable and such a size is unlikely. Their maximum size is about 10 feet, and adults average about 7 feet in length. Females are generally considerably larger than males. Females will often ultimately reach about 8 feet, and males about 6 feet, but females usually have a much larger girth.

Colombian Boa Constrictors are native to the tropical forests of Central and South America. The Boa's numbers have been lowered because they have been hunted for leather and meat. Captive breeding is doing much to ensure their survival.

Specific Care Information: Relative Care Ease: Average 
Because Colombian boas can get quite large, they are not suitable pets for children, and they can be difficult and costly to house and feed as adults. Even the most handleable Boas can behave aggressively without warning or provocation, and one should always use caution when approaching or handling large Boa Constrictors.

In captivity, Colombian Boas should be provided both climbing area and plenty of ground space. Younger, smaller boas tend to climb more than their larger counterparts, but some individuals continue to climb regularly, even as very large adults. Branches need to be sturdy and arranged in such a way that the boa cannot get stuck between branches. For large specimens, it is often more practical to make an elevated perch for them to bask on, than to furnish the cage with a branch capable of supporting them. A 6' high by 5' long by 3' deep enclosure is the minimum size recommended for a large adult. Indoor/outdoor carpeting, astro turf, newspaper, and aspen bedding are all suitable substrates; however, particularly for large snakes and enclosures, using aspen bedding or newspaper will make cage cleaning much simpler. Most Colombian Boas will soak frequently, particularly when they are preparing to shed or defecate, which soaking helps them to do. Because of this, they will need a large water bowl that they cannot easily tip, and it will most likely need to be cleaned fairly often.

Keep their ambient day temperature about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, a basking spot in the low 90s, and the humidity moderate to high. During the night, you should drop the temperature to between 70 and 75 degrees.

Breeding and Propagation: Relative Breeding Ease: Relatively Difficult 
In the wild, breeding generally occurs during the rainy season. In captivity sexual maturity can be reached at three years of age, but older, larger females are generally much better breeders. Only females with good body weight should be bred. The gestation lasts four to ten months. The Colombian Boa is a livebearer, bearing up to 60 young at one time. The young are anywhere from 14 to 24 inches long and weigh two to three ounces. The young generally do not eat until after their first shed, which is approximately one week after birth.

If you do intend to breed your Colombian Boas it is recommended that you feed additional food to both the males and females prior to breeding so as to increase body weight. Skinny snakes should not be bred.


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## Carnivoro (Oct 12, 2003)

And dont waste your money in a reptile UV bulb ( you wiil need that money for food), Get a flood light from home depot,ect. for about $3.00/6.00, and they do the same or better work than a commercial reptile UV bulb.
Remember feed it with frozen thawed food.
Good luck...

Carnivoro


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## DC_Cichlid (Jun 24, 2004)

zrreber said:


> I need to know everything i need to know about taking care of them from tank setup and such to food and such the one im looking into getting is about 2 feet right now so i would need to know everything you all could tell me about this snake. Thanks for the help and info
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You must not know much about snakes, am i correct? You are way over your head choosing a Red Tail, or even a Boa for that matter. These get over 10 feet in lengh usually, males tend to stay 7-9 feet,.. depending on the snake itself.
You would need a enclosure of atleast 6 or 8 feet- by 3 feet for life for it. And unless you have owned a snake before, you are making the wrong decision.

I will start with the type of snake you should start with, seeing how you probably want something bigger in size,... Ball Pythons are very good starter snakes, and I would say an amazing snake to own. Ball Pythons range from 3.5 -5 feet in lengh once full grown. Same with the red tail boa, males are smaller and females are larger. Do some research yourself on different types of snakes, but if you have not owned a snake before, which it seems... do NOT go with a Boa.

I would also recomend that you stay away from lights/bulbs. Instead, buy a thermostat, "Helix" is the best around, they cost about $120.00US. Do NOT buy a cheap thermostat. A couple people have lost thousands of dollars of snakes because there cheap thermostat breaks down, and usually stick ON, causing the heat in the cage to raise and cook the snake, untill it dies.

Once you purchase a good quality thermostat you will need FlexWatt heat tape, to heat the cage. This is the best method and works very well, if done right. You can control your temperature by the control of a bottom, and makes life so much easier.

Dave.


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## DC_Cichlid (Jun 24, 2004)

Carnivoro said:


> And dont waste your money in a reptile UV bulb ( you wiil need that money for food), Get a flood light from home depot,ect. for about $3.00/6.00, and they do the same or better work than a commercial reptile UV bulb.
> Remember feed it with frozen thawed food.
> Good luck...
> 
> ...


Go with either Heat pad/tape or a Red Heat Bulb to heat the enclosure. You do not need any light in the snakes enclosure for most speicies of snakes, they like the dark, and will usually hide durning the day. A Red Heat Bulb will cost you about 5-10US dollars.

An animal is not something to cheap out on like Carnivoro thinks, every animal deserves the best equipment if you are going to keep them as a pet.

If you think you cannot afford to feed the snake, dont purchase one.

Feed it Live, or F/T(Frozen/Thawed. Its up to you. If you would like a more tame snake, frozen or pre-killed food will be best.

I also suggest you keep away from buying a snake from a Pet Store. Most of the time they have no clue what they are talking about, leading you to belive there BS. They will tell lies to sell an animal, and you will belive it and get a animal that you really shouldn't get.

Buy your snake from a good breeder. He/She will lead you straight.


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## Carnivoro (Oct 12, 2003)

Well, i dont like this kind of discussion in sites, but..."Here an example of how many people are convinced that reptiles need specials lights",...All started by the pet industry to teach a lie to ignorant new customers, convince them that their animals need them or they will get sick and die , Well ,To the pet industry animals are not a decent source of income, you loose to much in them, so dry goods are where the money is made, if you are convinced you need to buy a new $20/$50+ bulb every 6,9... months,whatever, you will be back to spend more money there.

I and a lot of other Herps breeder experts and Herpetologyst got into many discussions with so called experts on UV bulbs, one recently admitted to a friend of mine that UV will not travel through glass, only quartz bulbs,........ Guess what those UV bulbs are made of, Regular glass.
Also anyone with common sense knows that UV will travel less through frosted glass than clear glass, so which one has frosted, which is clear, the halogen quartz is clear, the UV bulbs are frosted.
Regardless of any claims to UVbulbs etc, they dont do anything including color,shed,ect. in any reptile.Reptile are ectotherms they, and their colors respond to heat, temps, not light.

Ive kept many species and types of lizards, turtles, and snakes, without any UV bulbs ever without any problem.

But well these are my points and other herp experts. And this theme is under too much debate.
Your choice you may use it though.

Carnivoro


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