# Stupid question....



## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

90 gallon with
35 gallon wet/dry filter &
5 Red bellies
(eventually)

after tank is cycled and the readings are
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0 
Nitrate: 20+

how do I remove the Nitrate?


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## Dr. Giggles (Oct 18, 2003)

(((JKD))) said:


> 90 gallon with
> 35 gallon wet/dry filter &
> 5 Red bellies
> (eventually)
> ...


You don't want to eliminate nitrAtes but just control them via water changes. After a tank is freshly cycled it is good practice to do a 50% water change with dechlor if your water is treated and then 25-30% weekly water changes afterwards. If you plan on an overstocked tank you may have to alter your water change schedule.


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## Pyri (May 26, 2005)

Nitrate is ok when it´s under 40. Somebody thinks 60 is line but IMO less than 40 is best. Nitrate is full natural part in your water.

You should study, why and how nitrate comes to your water. Then you can understand it better and even value it


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

Thanks for the help!

-- is 5 reds in a 90 gallon tank overstocked?
I can get less...


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## boontje (Mar 27, 2005)

what size are the reds?


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

they are non existent at this point


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## "qickshot" (Apr 19, 2005)

5 reds is good for life i would get like 6 then if one dies it doesnt matter and them you can sell it ones they grow 2 like 7 inches if it doesnt die


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## Judazzz (Jan 13, 2003)

(((JKD))) said:


> Thanks for the help!
> 
> -- is 5 reds in a 90 gallon tank overstocked?
> I can get less...
> [snapback]1166337[/snapback]​


As far as space is concerned, maybe (depends on the tank's footprint).
As far as the filtration capacity goes it depends on how many and what types of filters you are running - if your total filtration capacity is enough for a tank at least 1,5-2x your tank's size (so rated for a 140+ gallon tank), you should be fine for a very long time, possibly even forever (depends on feeding regime, tank maintenance, water changes, pH, presence of tank mates etc.)


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

The tanks foot print is 48X18.
Planned filtration is ~600 gph wet-dry. Do I need more?

I plan on doing weekly gravel vacs for the heavy stuffs that settle on the bottom and replacing the water that is sucked out in the process.
I am also thinking of developing a system so that a constant slow stream of fresh well water is flowing into the sump with an overflow on the sump leading to a drain for the access water introduced into the system. What is that going to do with my water chemistry? (as long as the PH is within the acceptable perimeters)


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## Judazzz (Jan 13, 2003)

(((JKD))) said:


> The tanks foot print is 48X18.
> Planned filtration is ~600 gph wet-dry. Do I need more?[snapback]1168174[/snapback]​


For 5 or 6 Reds that will be too small for life, in my opinion.
Currently I have five 8-9" Redbellies in a 80g tank (52x20", so a larger footprint than your tank), and they make the tank look small. So eventually you'd need a larger tank...

As far as your filtration is concerned: it's not the gallons per hour that determine how efficient a filter is (I need to know for what size tank that filter is rated, or how many gallons of biomedia it can hold, what filtermedia you'll use, etc.), so it's hard to say wheter it is or not. Wet/dry filters are a very good option however, so I expect it to be more than enough.


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

The wet dry will be holding at least 5 gallons of bio balls.
The drip tray will have some kind of fiberous material.

Do I need more filtration?

(I plan on getting 4, maybe 5 reds...)
Which leads me to the question: 
Do I get more than I plan on keeping? (In case one or two do not make it)


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## Judazzz (Jan 13, 2003)

(((JKD))) said:


> The wet dry will be holding at least 5 gallons of bio balls.
> The drip tray will have some kind of fiberous material.
> 
> Do I need more filtration?
> ...


Sounds like more than enough filtration









As far as getting more piranha's than you plan to keep in the long run: you could do that, as young piranha's are very cannibalistic (although you have to keep in mind that even when you start a shoal and get adults instead of babies, there's the risk of cannibalism).
When I first started with piranha's I got 7 baby Reds, to see only one fish survive to become a sub-adult (the rest was killed before they even reached 3 inches). When I got my second batch, I started with 5 babies, and all are still still and kicking this day, 3 years later. It's impossible to predict how many will still be alive after say 12 months.

If you want to get more, just go ahead (many do that, just in case): just make sure you're able to find your excess piranha's a good home in case all survive and you end up with too many fish...


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

Yessir and thanks for the information!!


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## AMAZON DON (Sep 2, 2005)

3 seconds man i looked at that picture for 15 minuted and still didnt see no dolphins but i hink my nitrates rose those


(((JKD))) said:


> 90 gallon with
> 35 gallon wet/dry filter &
> 5 Red bellies
> (eventually)
> ...


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## DonD (Mar 11, 2004)

IMO/E, you have plenty of filtration as far as bio is concerned, but not mechanical. Wet dry filters are absolutely fantastic bio platforms, but pretty much suck when it comes to mechanical.
A wet dry operates by pumping water into a tank until it overflows. There is no active removal of particles. There is not enough current created to suspend stuff high enough and long enough for a great amount of it to be removed.
Remember, wet dry's were originaly designed to be used in a marine reef tank as just one part of an entire system including live sand, live rock and animals. 
I find that use of a cannister filter with just bio media in it combined with the wet dry is the best way to go. Cannister filters actively pull water with force into themselves. This makes for a much more efficient method of particulate removal.
Just something to consider.


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## "qickshot" (Apr 19, 2005)

dude you 90 gal has as much "piranha space" in it as my 75 you should get a differnt 90 gal one thats longer and maby wider


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## Uncle Rico (Sep 4, 2005)

I seriously cannot see the dolphins in that pic. Are they seriously there?


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

Peerahnya said:


> I seriously cannot see the dolphins in that pic. Are they seriously there?
> [snapback]1181314[/snapback]​


Looky at the red dots....


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## doctorvtec (May 15, 2004)

DonD said:


> IMO/E, you have plenty of filtration as far as bio is concerned, but not mechanical. Wet dry filters are absolutely fantastic bio platforms, but pretty much suck when it comes to mechanical.
> A wet dry operates by pumping water into a tank until it overflows. There is no active removal of particles. There is not enough current created to suspend stuff high enough and long enough for a great amount of it to be removed.
> Remember, wet dry's were originaly designed to be used in a marine reef tank as just one part of an entire system including live sand, live rock and animals.
> I find that use of a cannister filter with just bio media in it combined with the wet dry is the best way to go. Cannister filters actively pull water with force into themselves. This makes for a much more efficient method of particulate removal.
> ...


This is why we were teamed up Don, LOL. I have been preaching this exact same thing, but always get ragged on by people who say a wet dry doesn't need anything else.

I agree with what Don has said 100%.

I might add that another great reason to run a canister with a Wet/Dry is redundancy. If your wet dry fails for some reason, you have an established running filter that can help maintain the tank until you get the problem resolved. Extra filters on an already established tank are also great to use to establish new tanks quickly as well.


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

is what???

You trailed off....


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## (((JKD))) (Aug 14, 2005)

I have changed the design a little:

I will try out a UGJ system
&
Will get a HOB for Mechanical/Backup.


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## DonD (Mar 11, 2004)

BTW, that should say a cannister filled with mechanical media, NOT bio.


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