# 10 gal VS 20 gal



## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

Oookay.

So I was set on doing a 10 gallon nano. Traditional 20x10x12 sort of dimensions. Then I was thinking about maybe going a bit bigger. I was thinking the 20 gallon tall (24x12x16) to get some extra height. Thing is I own BOTH these tanks. So either would be useful.

My lighting is going to be the 16" Current USA Sunpod 70w mh fixture. (Thanks Nismo!) So I'm concerned that MAYBE it won't be enough light anymore?

The reason why I'm thinking about going 20 gal is of course for more water volume (never a bad thing) but also because of flow issues. I want to put an AC110 modded fuge on the back and am concerned about the flow from it. Anyone read anything? Have experiences? I guess if it turns out bad I can just sell it and do it with an AC70? I just like the volume of the AC110 and am getting one for free, basically.

Last question - wavemaker? Someone in my local club is selling a nearly brand new Powersweep 214 for a good price and was wondering if I should try and nab it. From my understanding this is a powerhead that rotates and causes flow in multiple directions? I read this model is good up to 30 gal tanks but not sure what type of pressure it would exert in a 10 gal or 20 gal. Recommendations?

Thanks.


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## nismo driver (Jan 27, 2004)

dont want to be biased about the light but the general rule of thumb is 1 halide for every two feet. personal experiance with this exact light over a 30 inch long tank is that with the hight of a 20 high and that width the llight will be fine, you might have to position corals higher or lower in the tank depending on the their light needs but this will actually give you more versatility, in the 12 inch deep tank everythign would be gettign pretty much the same amount of light with the deep tank things placed on the sand level wont get as much as things place up higher on the rock.

im not sure off hand about how much turn over a ac110 has but its always good to ahve your crruent from multiple directions so an additional power heads a good idea, onyl down side iver hear about the power sweeps it that the sweep stops working eventually, never ran one my self so maybe its poor maintenance habits that lead to this failure or maybe just short lifespan. it is kind of tough in these smaller tanks with out a sump to get true random flow without spending the money for tunzies nanostreams with a controller. there are options like korillias with other timers but they tend to "knock" when they engage and this can cuase stress on the corals or fish if they are skittish to the clacking of the prop engaging.

the other advantage of the 20 over the 10 would be slightly more water volume= a few more options for fish , they would still have to be small species but instead of 1-2 you could have maybe 2-4.

other then that you will need a few more pounds of sand to get the desired coverage and depth and close to double the amount of rock so you will increase your set up costs in those aspects.


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

Hmm. Very true. I do like the idea of versatility in terms of corals though. That sounds pretty cool to me, imo. I'm thinking I will be going with the 20 gal after all even if I did have my mind TOTALLY set on the 10 gal, haha. Glad I have both sitting around.

Now I need to make sure I don't do the 40 gal.







Though if I got another one of those halides then... Haha, just kidding!

I'll stay away from the powersweep. No desire to have something that kicks out after a short period of time.

For livestock - can I have a nemo?


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## nismo driver (Jan 27, 2004)

Mettle said:


> Hmm. Very true. I do like the idea of versatility in terms of corals though. That sounds pretty cool to me, imo. I'm thinking I will be going with the 20 gal after all even if I did have my mind TOTALLY set on the 10 gal, haha. Glad I have both sitting around.
> 
> Now I need to make sure I don't do the 40 gal.
> 
> ...


perculas true or false should be fine, just not a maroon, claki or tomato cown, those tend to grow larger then the perc.s also more agressive and in a small tank aggresion is amplified.


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## XSPhoto (Sep 26, 2007)

Yep, You can have Nemos


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## Coldfire (Aug 20, 2003)

nismo driver said:


> perculas true or false should be fine, just not a maroon, claki or tomato cown, those tend to grow larger then the perc.s also more agressive and in a small tank aggresion is amplified.


Great info above ND!!

Yes, you can definitely go with a perculas (true or false) and be fine. If you want more than one fish, then definitely don't go with a Maroon. I have a maroon, and the only other fish I have in my tank is a bi-colored blenny. The Maroon is the meanest fish I own (yes, and that is over the piranhas as well). He attackes anything in the tank, including me, my hand, my arm.


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## nismo driver (Jan 27, 2004)

my false percs attack my hand when im doing stuff in the tank, they are brave little fish.

very interesting too, i bought a pari abotu the same size but slightly differnt colors, one more yellow then the other, in the last month or more they have grown substaintially one has become larger then the other im thinking they have established sex's as a pair and both have nearly identicle coloring. it would be quite cool if they mate. i dont realyl plan on breeding but the fish larva would make a nice food suppliment for the other stuff in my tank. maybe if they do i will set up a tank and try to raise some.


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## Coldfire (Aug 20, 2003)

Yeah, that definitely sounds like they have "decided" their sex with the larger one being female, and are pairing off. Congrats, that would be cool to have a mated pair.


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## redbellyjx © (Jan 26, 2004)

how about this...use both! use the 20 as a display and 10 as a fuge.


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## nismo driver (Jan 27, 2004)

redbellyjx © said:


> how about this...use both! use the 20 as a display and 10 as a fuge.


that the way to do it if you can setup an oveflow of some type


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

I have no clue how to do anything remotely like an overflow. How would that even work?

Sounds a lot more expensive, too. Lol.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

once the 10 gal is up and running you will want a bigger tank... face it.. you would simply have to have the 20 gal drilled and an overflow installed (easy DIY job), and maybe a few baffles in the 10 gal to keep sand and such in place.... have the 20 gal drilled and dont fill it to the overflow, and transfer the entire 10 gal into it, water and all... clean and dry the 10 gal, install baffles (look online for fuge plans), get a pump to return the water and top it off.... plumbing would be the hard part cause the glue needs to dry, and just to be safe i would soak it for a day or 2, and thats the most time consuming part is watching glue dry... and you have 2 separate environments to play with!

i just started a 55 gal cause i have never done salt before, and i watched my friend drive his tank into the dirt, always trying to help him and reading around.... he went the opposite direction always, and nuked his tank with tapwater and 1 HOB filter.... and then didnt want it now 1000$ later, i still need a lighting setup and to install my fuge/sump... its like legal crack and the FDA should have a warning label on anything reef related


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

Yeah. See. Not sure if I want to do all of that stuff with the drilling and the plumbing. Etc etc. Seems like a lot of STUFF and a lot more expense. Not looking at getting into that personally. That's just me though...


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Mettle said:


> Yeah. See. Not sure if I want to do all of that stuff with the drilling and the plumbing. Etc etc. Seems like a lot of STUFF and a lot more expense. Not looking at getting into that personally. That's just me though...


about 6$ in plumbing, not including the drilling and bulkhead, a pump, and 10$ in acrylic... you dont have to drill the tank you could use a hang on overflow... personally i think the added stability of more water will make the whole thing easier, and you will prob spend the amount of time it would take to setup, on keeping your water params up to par... its up to you tho


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

But then I also have to completely rethink stand, etc, for this thing. Not to mention I've already gone from 10gal to 20gal. So I think that "more stability" will be there anyway.

Thanks for the advice though.

If I did something like this it'd likely be down the road with a larger tank.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Mettle said:


> But then I also have to completely rethink stand, etc, for this thing. Not to mention I've already gone from 10gal to 20gal. So I think that "more stability" will be there anyway.
> 
> Thanks for the advice though.
> 
> If I did something like this it'd likely be down the road with a *larger tank*.


bet ya 20$ that wont be too far out once its up and running.... just throwing out ideas man


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## nismo driver (Jan 27, 2004)

yeah theres nothing wrong with keeping it lower budget and very basic at this point and learn how to maintain a "nano" then when you are ready to go bigger you can start to incorporate more elements..

all you really need is good lighting and good water movement low bio load and good cleaner crew supplimented with consistnatly topping off with ro water between water changes done at least once a month or even twice a month.


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

Skunkbudfour20 said:


> But then I also have to completely rethink stand, etc, for this thing. Not to mention I've already gone from 10gal to 20gal. So I think that "more stability" will be there anyway.
> 
> Thanks for the advice though.
> 
> If I did something like this it'd likely be down the road with a *larger tank*.


bet ya 20$ that wont be too far out once its up and running.... just throwing out ideas man
[/quote]

Yeah. Not likely for a few years at the very least though... If that. Depends on what happens after I finish my Masters. Which may be as soon as this time next year (if I manage to fast track). Might be headed overseas. We'll see though.


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