# Drill?



## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

so i would like some input about drilled tank vs hangon back overflow for a wet dry set up?are the hang on back systems safe?


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## memento (Jun 3, 2009)

They are safe, but drilled ones are easier and cheaper I think. 
I don't know much about the hang up systems though, but I think they are comparable to the sump that is positioned _above_ the tank instead of below.

The main benefit of course is, you won't have to drill a hole.
But for an average aquarium with a cabinet below it, I would prefer a normal drilled system. The sump can easily be placed in the cabinet below it, out of sight and easy to maintain.

However of course for large tank that don't have a cabinet below it, or tanks like mine that are build in, there is no space below for a sump.
In those cases, a hang up system or a higher placed sump can be an option.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Hang on overflows can quickly become a disaster if not setup correctly... There are a few precautions that can be taken to prevent a flood, but its really only a matter of time. The HOB overflow I had setup ran flawlessly for 3 years almost, and then one day the U tube developed a small hairline crack causing the siphon to break.... and then my entire sump was pumped directly onto the floor.

If you do go the HOB route, stay away from the boxes that require a lift pump or powerhead to maintain the siphon as its just one more fail point. I have tons of pics and videos if you want some help setting one up.

The only thing that can really cause a drilled tank to fail is a drain blockage.... if you plan ahead and make 2 or even 3 (redundant protection) drains its far "safer" than a HOB


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## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

Egir thank u for the response agin man,yes i would love pics and vids man.So im leaning towered the drilled tank now, since i will have a lot of light above the tank and would like those tubes for the hang on back out of the way.I will be getting the 100g tank from a lfs im hoping to get the back left of the tank drilled with two holes for the over flow,what size holes i dont know or do u get to choose?by the way this will be a high light planted tank with 5 Ps.How do i do the stand pipe or do i need one in the over flow box?


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

If it was my tank I would use a "coast to coast" style overflow box, which goes across the entire top back panel (can be seen in link) and as for drains, the ideal setup can be found HERE but there are tons of ways to configure it.

Give me a second to dig up HOB pics and stuff so you can see what a PITA they are compared to plumbing a fixed drain setup


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Ok, quick run down... when i got my HOB box for my first 55 gal saltwater tank it was my only option at the time. It came with nothing but the box, the U tube (NO hole for powerhead or lift pump to prime) and a crappy straight standpipe that was niagra falls loud at full return. The key idea here, is when your power is OFF, the water can never drop below the ends of the U tube and break the siphon. If it does, when the power comes back on it will just pump until the display overflows and makes a huge mess (trust me, done it a few times)










video of improvised bell standpipe, i was sick with a head cold trying to help another member so cut me some slack

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf

and pictures of parts (right before i threw them in the garbage and vowed to never use a hang on again)





































(off the top of my head parts in last 2 pics are: )

1) 1" PVC to connect spa flex or rigid plumbing to sump.
2) 1" slip x 1" FPT with O ring (this is where it passes from inside to outside the overflow box)
3) 1" slip x 1" MPT with O ring (again, O ring for seal outside of box)
4) 2" "bell" with strainer holes
5) 2" to 1 1/2" reducer (the inside of this part is what rests on the inner standpipe)
6) small piece of 1 1/2" pipe
7) 1 1/2" cap with vent hole

lots of work for a low flowing overall turnover.... worth drilling for the peace of mind and sleep at night!


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## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

YES SIR sh*t if it overflowed on me, i would never hear the end of it from the wife.


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## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

ok just checked out that link that, is a great design,can u answer a question for me dude how can how should i connect the 3 standpipes to a wetdry with 2 intakes sorry im just really new at this and wanna make sure it is done rite.do u have this type of system running on a tank of your own?man i cant wait to get this new setup going it is going to be so sweet,gotta go to sleep gota work tmrw so i will get back on in the morn.







this place is awesome gotta love the fury!


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

well, if you have 3 drains only 2 are actually in operation unless theres a clog of some sort.... so you could just run your emergency drain straight to the return pump compartment or the baffles before to reduce bubbles. If that drain is needed, it wouldnt be any benefit to run it through the filter media anyways.

Another option that i am not fond of is combining all the drains into 1 (you would have to use a large diameter pipe like 2") and then split them again so even flow goes to both compartments of the sump.

I dont have one running at the moment, the only tank i personally own at the moment is a marineland 120h with an end overflow box and single 2" drain. I setup a reef tank for a friend who is using a similar setup, and the emergency drain is still dry a few years later. In reality if you found a tank that was already drilled it wouldnt hurt to use 2 corner overflows with standpipes. But because you want to drill your own tank, its better to do it once in my opinion, and to do it the best way you can!


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## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

ok, i see that is what i was thinking with the three drians, just run the emergency drain straight to the pump compartment,if i can get all this done i am going to use soft pluming instead of the hard,like some clear tubes with the barb adapter behind the bulkhead would this still work?


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

Personally i never use vinyl or spa flex... I would run rigid sch 40 PVC the entire way and paint it black before final gluing. Like i said earlier, i am a fan of over doing things once and enjoying the peace of mind down the road. Vinyl tubing eventually gets rigid and yellow, can crack, or blow off the hose barb if not clamped properly. Down the road the clamps will rust.

Make a drawing of what you want, and an idea of how you want to run things... from there its easy to get a parts list and mock things up before gluing.

You totally can use flex to make things easier, but down the road you will find its not much help... You have tons of room to work with, and relatively simple plumbing to run anyways


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## RedBellyCasanova (Jul 21, 2012)

peace of mind is a great thing.alright well gotta get ready i go work at 3 i will be back on tonight for more researchn thank u again man.cant wait for a real tank lol or should i say a bigger tank peace


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