# Suggestions For My Tank...



## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

So I would just like a little input with my 200 gallon since I've never had anything bigger than a 5g before.

Powerhead- I don't have any so what gph whould be ideal and what position in the tank would be best.

Filter- I have one fx5 and another on the way plus I'm planning a 50-75g sump when my piranhas are bigger. Is that good enough? (I have an ac110 and an emperor 400 that I could use as well

Heater- I'm going to get two Fluval E, 300 watt heaters placing them on opposite ends of the tank, possible right where the fx5's output nozzle is so that there's plenty of circulation.

Substrate- Going to buy silica sand, can get it for 7$ a 50lb sack. I'm going to use the sand in my 55g and my 200g, but I'll be only planting plants in the 55g and see how that goes for now. Then I can put a dimmer light on my big tank and when I'm comfortable I can maintain the plants I'll move some into my 200g.

Planning on keeping around 20 baby rbps in the 55g till they're 1-2 inches and then to move them into the big one. I'll sell as many as I need to get my total to around 8-10 for life.

Any input, advice, criticism is welcome


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

I personally try to replicate the natural environment... use your powerheads and canister to create linear flow in the tank like a river. If you place your canister or sump intake (overflow box, strainer etc) at one end, and the output on the other it has worked well for me. In my Rhoms 120 i have 3 maxijet 1200s, all in different places on one end of the tank, 2 are on timers so they come on when the lights do. I will also note its not a good idea to put them on timers, as the on and off (with no "soft start" or ramp off) will reduce the life of the pump.

I would just skip the FX5 and AC on the big tank and get a sump going. Helped a member DMACKEY (not sure what happened to his tank, think he was selling) setup a sump with 2 5 gal buckets of media and a huge return pump.... It was like 3 or 4 FX5s on steroids media and turnover wise, and used far less power. having the FX is a good excuse for another tank

20 reds in a 55 will be a trick... you will have to literally feed them constantly to keep cannibalism down. I would suggest no substrate to make the frequent gravel vacs easier.


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

Thanks for the info btw... Care to elaborate on the 5 gallon bucket system? So what size holes do you recommend I drill in the main tank and what size/type of pump should I use?


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

heres the diagram i made for him: the two colors are a drain and return, notice how the buckets full of media arent submerged in water and sit on a tray.










I will have to dig up some pictures if i have them. I would use the biggest tank you can fit under the stand, the extra volume is nice, and down the road extra room always helps. I believe his was a 75 gallon or 90 breeder? You want a tank that is not tall and narrow like a 55 gallon.

As for overflows and returns theres 1000 ways to set it up... what do you want? Do you mind corner overflow boxes? do you want to keep the display clutter free and use a coast to coast style overflow? Look at some peoples systems, especially saltwater because thats where the sump and overflow things happen first.

google "beananimals failsafe overflow" and check that out for sure


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

I think coast to coast is probably simpler and better. So if I was to put in a 2000 gph pump, what size holes would I need to drill? I would like to drill the overflow, set it up, and then run the fx5's until I can find a proper sized aquarium to put underneath. I could probably fit a 150g if I wanted since I designed the stand and its pretty huge inside.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

You could use a single 2" drain, two 1 1/2" drains, 3 1" drains... The reason i like the beananimal drain is because its silent, and has an emergency drain incase you primary becomes clogged. as for returns, 2 1" would work fine. Also keep in mind you would want atleast 2000gph AFTER head loss, as it takes power to push water up and horizontally. Most pumps will have a chart that tells you your loss, or google online for the specific pump.

glassholes.com makes kits for overflows, check em out


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

I think I'll get two 1000 gph pumps cause it's hard to even find any that are 2000. Wouldn't it be easy (and cheaper) to make my own and just buy the glass?


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

well, if an overflow box fails and your standpipe isnt configured correctly (in a traditional overflow) you will drain all the water in your display down to the bottom of the bulkhead. If your bulkheads are in the bottom of the tank (or even bottom half) you can see what a problem this can create, and why a large sump is nice to have. I would however recommend putting the baffles in your sump on your own... any aquarium shell that fits the dimensions will work, even 2 90 breeders or something to make cleaning and tear down easy if necessary.

I would recommend an external pump, something like a Reeflow snapper hybrid. we run two of em on a 400 gal saltwater tank, they are quiet and fairly power conservative. That pump comes with two impellers, so if you want more flow its a quick swap!


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

Exactly, I guess that's why the coast to coast overflow is better. I take it that the best way to do it is to set up the display tank and then shut off the pump. Then I'd have a large container and measure how much water would run out. Or just do the math for how much water is above the bulkheads.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

I mark all of my sumps with a piece of tape at the MAX CAPACITY, which is determined by filling your sump to the absolute max you are comfortable with when the pump is OFF. When you turn on the pump, give it a minute to tumble and the sump level to equalize... and mark that point as MAX. As long as you have a few key things (a siphon break on your return lines!!!) and never fill your sump past that mark, your sump wont overflow in a power outage.

As for the bulkhead and overflow box thing, my 155 bowfront was drilled at the bottom corners of the rear panel, the overflow boxes were too tight for a standpipe, so basically I played the chance of 125 gallons of water going to my sump if something happened. My sump was a 125, with about 100 gals in it, so 100 gallons would have gone down the drain. As long as you arent just running a free flow bulkhesd and you get a standpipe setup you like, overflow box or not your should be safe.

After I sold that tank, I took the time to cut down a bunch of PVC parts and make a "stubby" standpipe that would fit in the box. Hard to tell from the picture, but the black part on the top is a T and a 90 facing away like a standard durso style.


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

I know I can get the glass for home depot or something but wouldn't it be simpler to just get a 5" by 6' piece of glass and have it at an angle? Kinda hard to explain... instead of using the two pieces in Beananimals one, couldn't I use just one piece of glass diagonally?


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## Trevorjm (Nov 7, 2011)

nvm, I'll be making it exactly like beananimals design. Just took a few re-reads to understand it all :laugh: 
I don't think I'll use a 5 gallon pail in my sump, I'll just silicone the sections and design it very similar to this...






Thanks again for all the info and help


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

No prob man, post lots of pics of the progress for other members!


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