# QUESTIONS.....



## rbP NUT (Dec 2, 2003)

1- will my 12w heat mat burn my snake? it says it cant
2- how long does it take for a new snake to settle in?
3- is there such a thing as handeling my snake too much(iv heard all the jokes







)
4- how big a gerbil to feed my 3ft snake

thanks guys


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## CrocKeeper (Dec 26, 2003)

Taken from 
(Python r. regius) 
By Edward M. Craft


> Since ball pythons are mostly nocturnal animals they will move around and prefer to eat at night no special lighting is required. The bones in the prey animals that they eat supply their need for calcium. A normal 40-60 watt incandescent bulb placed in an inexpensive clamp style lamp is sufficient light. Be sure when placing the light that it is located outside the enclosure and that the snake does not have access to it. This will help to prevent thermal burns from direct contact with the bulb. This method of lighting is also sufficient enough to provide heat and should be placed over one end of the enclosure to provide a heat gradient. A log or piece of wood placed at a 45 degree angle with the highest end under the light will allow the snake to bask and thus thermoregulate its body temperature. This method will also provide a cool end of the enclosure. A healthy snake should move about between the two ends of the enclosure regulating its body temperature freely. If a snake is spending all of its time in the hot end of the enclosure the temperature should be raised, as this is an indicator that the ambient enclosure temperature is too cool. The reverse is true if the snake is spending most of its time in the cool end of the enclosure. Heat pads and "Hot Rocks" should be avoided since all reptiles have a Preferred Optimum Temperature Zone (POTZ). In order for a reptile to reach its POTZ it must be 10 degrees F. above the ambient temperature this can not be accomplished by lying on a hot object. If the snake lies on a heat pad it can only get as hot as the pad. It is impossible for the snake to raise its temperature to 10 degrees above the object that it is laying on. Providing an overhead heat source is the best and most effective way to allow a reptile to do this. The most important factor involving lighting and heat is to be sure and to provide a heat/light cycle of 12-14 hours per day. This will allow the animal time to cool off at night. Constant light has been shown to effect thyroid production in some species of reptiles. Since ball pythons are nocturnal eaters providing constant light may effect eating habits, thus making a problem eater even more of a problem.
> 
> Diet:
> Diet should consist of PRE-KILLED prey items only. Feeding live prey animals can be dangerous for your snake. Small rodents still have their teeth and claws and will fight for their life if fed live. They are capable of inflicting serious injury to a snake and if the snake does not eat the prey animal right away the prey animal can become hungry thus turning the tables on the predator. The best method for doing this is to have the pet store pre-kill the prey for you. If they will not do this than a swift blow to the base of the back of the skull against the edge of the enclosure or a counter top. This may sound cruel, but the fact remains that it is safer for the snake and it is more humane for the prey animal whose demise is swifter and less painful. Once you have obtained pre-killed prey it may be frozen and then thawed out prior to feeding to your snake. The freezing process will also help to prevent the spread of internal and external parasites from prey to your snake. Be sure that the prey item is thoroughly thawed before feed it to your snake. Once the prey has been frozen it can remain frozen for 30 days after which time the nutrients will begin to break down. This will allow you to maintain a ready supply of food items if they become unavailable in your area for a while. Feeding should be done on a random basis since all snakes are opportunistic feeders in the wild. The amount and size of prey should vary as well to help to fulfill the snakes' opportunistic feeding habits. Most breeders will recommend regular feedings and specific size prey animals, but remember their goals are to raise and animal fast so that it reaches sexual maturity in a hurry, not to provide the best possible captive long-term environment. There is nothing wrong with this method either it is just geared toward rapid growth for the purposes of breeding since a snake's growth is related to the amount it eats. The only problem with a constant set diet appears to be that it shortens the over all life span of the animal. Random feeders seem to live longer according to most veterinary studies. Since ball pythons are notorious for NOT eating or going off food I will not be covering that here. This would entail an entire care sheet of its own. What I will tell you is that there are many methods that you can try to get your ball python to eat. The only problem with them all is that it takes time and an anorexic snake does not have time. A ball python can survive for up to a year without eating, however problems may occur as a result. Long-term anorexia can lead to dehydration which in turn can lead to kidney problems. The best method for dealing with this problem is to see a qualified reptile veterinarian if the animal fails to eat after 60 days. There are drugs available now that have been proven to stimulate appetite in reptiles when given in small dosages.


The above info is good, and as far as size of a gerbil (Meriones unguiculatus), if your snake is close to a meter in length then it will have no problem at all consuming adults.


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## rbP NUT (Dec 2, 2003)

thanks croc keeper, i noticed the heat pad thing, what i have done is put the heat mat in 1/6 th of the viv as its just big enough for the snake to comfortably coil on so there are cold spots too, i protected my light strip using mesh


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## The Wave (Oct 22, 2003)

I learn something new all the time from crockeeper


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## CrocKeeper (Dec 26, 2003)

I learn from you all too, just returning the favor...gotta love this site!!!


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## Atlanta Braves Baby! (Mar 12, 2003)

My I ask where you found this info croc keeper? I would like to get some info like this on my suriname/columbian redtail. Thanks


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## CrocKeeper (Dec 26, 2003)

What info are you wanting on the suriname..I have kept and bred them since the late 70's


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