# Hats Off to Everyone For The Info...



## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi everyone,

First off I want to say that this forum is great... lots of info and any time I read a post about something people here are ready to help. Its amazing to think how the internet has helped to allow information sites like this to be built.

I have always liked plants in my tank. When I am at the fish store I get a few here and there and after some time, they all die or become small. I know this is because I dont have the conditions for it, but that is soon to change. I was at the LFS and started talking with one of the guys that works there who started telling me about his planted tank project that is now "closed" and he is getting rid of all the stuff that went along with it.

I have a 90G with an Elongatus (bought on this forum without incident). I now have a CO2 system... its not anything huge, but for me it will do the trick. I currently have 2 - 54W T5 bulbs lighting the tank and I am thinking about buying one more T5 - 2 x 54W bulbs to give me 2.5WPG to start.

Here is where my head is at.

1. PH Controller - Milwaukee. I really like this idea and have read some of the stuff on here that I can find about it. I did see a post from Dippy that says you need to change your probe every year at ~$45 each time. That is really the only part that I dont like... and it seems strange to me that you would need to change that every year. Is this really the case? I do currently have a timer setup that I can also use to turn the CO2 off and on.

2. Lights - I think I have already made my mind up about the extra light. I have seen stuff on here where 1WPG works, but I think that 2.5WPG will be a better plan.

3. Substrate - I currently have a regular white gravel. Now I am not worried about rooting as I can always hold the plants down with something, but I have seen things where the substrate adds nutrients and makes the growing easier. I plan on adding nutrients to the tank, and I guess I am hoping that this is enough... I cant see how I can add any of the nutrient rich substrates without making a mess of everything. The good thing that I can see is that the gravel builds up with all kinds of "waste" material and if I dont do any gravel cleaning there should be lots of goodies in there for plants to use... at least thats my thinking.

4. Testing Levels - I am trying my best to make this a minimal effort event. People talk about the test kits and all the different levels of EVERYTHING while I have talked with others that just set and forget, and other than pruning, they dont do anything... I have some simple test strips that show all the different levels (except KH I think) and I am hoping that I can get by with this.

5. I am cautious - since this is all kinda new, I am slightly reserved about everything... My main concern is not to kill the fish!

6. Plant to the Max - I have seen this written in a few places and wonder if this is a recommendation of the experts around here? The concept that more plants use up all the nutrients and starve the Algae is logical...

I think thats it for now...

Thanks again everyone...

CK


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## BlackSunshine (Mar 28, 2006)

you don't "HAVE" to have a ph controler. Really the only reason for one is to maintain a specific PH in the tank. A drop checker can be just as effective for a general idea of your co2 levels.


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## ryanimpreza (Jul 19, 2006)

BlackSunshine said:


> you don't "HAVE" to have a ph controler. Really the only reason for one is to maintain a specific PH in the tank. A drop checker can be just as effective for a general idea of your co2 levels.


yes I use a drop checker also. Save to money to buy more plants. I am glad to see that you are having good luck with the site..... As of now you have 1.2 wpg so you really dont need co2. I recommend that you get the other light set for 2.4 wpg. This would be great with your co2. Once again glad to see you are getting the info off of the site. Keep us posted.


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## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

So when you guys say "drop checker" is that a digital one that you drop in and check the levels with or are these testing strips?

The part that I like about the controller (and I know I dont HAVE to have it) is that it monitors and adjusts automatically... Do you guys know anything about the probe changes?

CK


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## ryanimpreza (Jul 19, 2006)

FrontMan said:


> So when you guys say "drop checker" is that a digital one that you drop in and check the levels with or are these testing strips?
> 
> The part that I like about the controller (and I know I dont HAVE to have it) is that it monitors and adjusts automatically... Do you guys know anything about the probe changes?
> 
> CK


Probe changes I do know you have to change them out a lot. Im sure dippys on the money with that. Drop checkers red sea makes one that is what I use. It is not digital. Ask Dippy if he can send you a water testing chart which will take the place of the drop checker. You test kH and pH to find the optimum level of Co2. I will see if I can find that chart. Hold on...

http://www.aquatic-plants.org/articles/khp...khph_table.html

here it is check it out...


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## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

Ok, so from what you are telling me there is an optimum amount of CO2 based on those numbers or if you follow the two numbers from each side, that IS how much CO2 you have in the water?

On this topic I decided to test my water conditions just to see what they were...

160-200 ppm Nitrate
0-.5 Nitrite
200-300 ppm GH (Hardness)
180-300 KH (Alkalinity)
7.8-8.4 PH

Now, I read and searched other areas of the forums for thoughts on these things...
Some say if things are going fine, dont worry...

My new concern is how adding CO2 is going to change all this... (assuming I add more light)
I know that some of these levels are higher than they should be...

CK


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## ryanimpreza (Jul 19, 2006)

FrontMan said:


> Ok, so from what you are telling me there is an optimum amount of CO2 based on those numbers or if you follow the two numbers from each side, that IS how much CO2 you have in the water?
> 
> On this topic I decided to test my water conditions just to see what they were...
> 
> ...


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## DiPpY eGgS (Mar 6, 2005)

I would consider getting those params in check before starting. 
Nitrates are very important for the growth of your plants, but any higher than 40ppm, it can be excess food for some good ole fashioned nasty algea









Nitrite should be 0. I wouldn't add the extra light until you get the nitrates under control. It is quite possibly an accident waiting to happen


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## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

DiPpY eGgS said:


> I would consider getting those params in check before starting.
> Nitrates are very important for the growth of your plants, but any higher than 40ppm, it can be excess food for some good ole fashioned nasty algea
> 
> 
> ...


The only way to get the Nitirites into control is to do water changes, correct?

I have been recently stepping them up and doing them more often...

CK


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## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

Here is the tank... I am wondering what I should do with the space.

Obviously some larger stuff in the back and I want to try and grass up the from right side... Any comments are welcome.

CK


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## FrontMan (Feb 7, 2005)

Well after 5 straight days of chaning 15 Gallons I now have the Nitrates under control around the 40ppm area. I will do a few more and it should bring it a bit lower... I was beginning to wonder if I would be able to control those numbers at all!

Next thing I need to do is add a bit more light...

CK


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## notaverage (Sep 10, 2005)

FrontMan said:


> Here is the tank... I am wondering what I should do with the space.
> 
> Obviously some larger stuff in the back and I want to try and grass up the from right side... Any comments are welcome.
> 
> CK


Looks good...godd luck and keep us updated!


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## BlackSunshine (Mar 28, 2006)

No to get nitrites under control you have to have an established bio filtration. so they can convert it to nitrates and feed the plants.


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