# prime



## dschoter05

i just switched to prime.it says on the bottle its best if you treat the water before you add it to the tank, or treat the whole tank. i want to know what you guys do?


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## Plowboy

For all my chlorine conditioners i just dump it in the tank then add water. And well, if your using it as an ammo treatment the ammo is already in the tank so I would just dump it in the tank for that too


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## dschoter05

Plowboy said:


> For all my chlorine conditioners i just dump it in the tank then add water. And well, if your using it as an ammo treatment the ammo is already in the tank so I would just dump it in the tank for that too


should have been more specific from the start my bad. i am just treating or chlorine. for instance i have a 125. if i do say a 30% water change, should i treat like 50 gallons or the whole 125. i use a phtyon for water changes so i cant mix the prime with the new water until it is in the tank.


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## Plowboy

I just put it in for the 50g right after im done sucking and before I add water back in. I like to aim for the power head and avoid the filter intakes with the new water.


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## dschoter05

Plowboy said:


> I just put it in for the 50g right after im done sucking and before I add water back in. I like to aim for the power head and avoid the filter intakes with the new water.


thanks man! other opinions would be great too


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## philbert

it says on the bottle if you are adding it to the aquarium treat as if treating the whole thing so add enough for 125g


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## Plowboy

philbert said:


> it says on the bottle if you are adding it to the aquarium treat as if treating the whole thing so add enough for 125g


You sure thats not just for ammo? Cuz treating the whole thing wouldnt make much sense to me for a water change


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## xeloR

Good stuff!

Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.


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## WillieWonka1

mtuttle02 said:


> Good stuff!
> 
> Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.


I'm pretty sure if he's using prime he's got the bottle and can read.

I have a python also... for water changes, all I do is add for the water that I'm replacing and pour the prime into the flow of water that I'm adding to the tank.


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## xeloR

WillieWonka1 said:


> I'm pretty sure if he's using prime he's got the bottle and can read.
> 
> I have a python also... for water changes, all I do is add for the water that I'm replacing and pour the prime into the flow of water that I'm adding to the tank.


Hence the reason I copied the directions directly from Seachem's website. Its not rocket science. Water out- condition- water in


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## WillieWonka1

Without getting into a discussion concerning rocket science or useless answers.... One of which you seem to know something about.

No matter where you copied the directions from... they are on every bottle of prime you buy... hence the comment.... if he's using it.. he can probably read.

His question was...

_should have been more specific from the start my bad. i am just treating or chlorine. for instance i have a 125. if i do say a 30% water change, should i treat like 50 gallons or the whole 125. i use a phtyon for water changes so i cant mix the prime with the new water until it is in the tank._

He's made it clear that he's read the instructions.. knows what it says concerning volume and adding to the water... He is asking what other people do and recommend.

I merely told him what I do. dose for replaced water and pour directly into the tank as I'm adding water.


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## Rough996

I add enough to treat the amount of water that I'm adding only. Keep in mind that I do a water change every 2-3 days, so I'm ONLY treating to get rid of the chlorine that's being added.

One question for everyone else though: When you use Prime, do you notice that your nitrate readings are off (exceptionally high)? If you test your water prior to adding and then again when complete, do you get a higher nitrate reading afterward?


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## dschoter05

Rough996 said:


> I add enough to treat the amount of water that I'm adding only. Keep in mind that I do a water change every 2-3 days, so I'm ONLY treating to get rid of the chlorine that's being added.
> 
> One question for everyone else though: When you use Prime, do you notice that your nitrate readings are off (exceptionally high)? If you test your water prior to adding and then again when complete, do you get a higher nitrate reading afterward?


i did a water change last night and that happened thought it was a fluke.


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## WillieWonka1

This isn't mine but was posted on another site.

A few years ago, I asked Greg Morin at Seachem what does Prime do exactly to Chloramine. Here are my questions (in bold) and his responses (in italics):

1.) what happens to the Chlorine?
it is reduced to chloride, rendered totally harmless

2.) what happens to the Ammonia? Does pH affect the toxifying of the Ammonia?
The ammonia is converted into a non-toxic form (not ammonium). It is
converted into the Schiff base of an aldehyde (R2C=NH) which is
non-toxic.

One person has said, "true they will detoxify ammonia NH3 to ammonium NH4"
Not the case, see above, a simple conversion to ammonium can only
occur quantitatively below pH 7, above pH 7 you would have some
ammonia and some ammonium.

The bacteria do use this non-toxic bound ammonia, but they use only
what they need... they do not "see" an excess of "ammonia" for them.
The bound ammonia converts very slowly back to ammonia but at a rate
that is much slower than the rate at which the bacteria can remove
it, so the net effect is you see no free ammonia rise in the aquarium
and the bacteria continue on just as they normally would.

(I mentioned using a holding tank to 'age' the treated water)
This is a good suggestion, it is always best to neutralize the change
water before adding it to the aquarium, however one can add change
water straight away and then add a dose of Prime based on the total
volume of water and not the change volume. Not ideal but one can
generally "get away" with this if they are not inclined to premix the
change water before adding to the aquarium.

Also, any test for ammonia will show positive when treated with Prime
or a similiar product because all commerical ammonia kits on the
market converts ionized ammonia and bound ammonia to total free
ammonia by raising the pH to 13+ which destroys the Prime-Ammonia
complex, thus giving a false impression of the level of toxic free
ammonia. To measure only toxic free ammonia one can use either our
Ammona Alert or MultiTest:Free & Total Ammonia which uses a sensor
technology that avoids the issue described above.


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## dschoter05

Great info wonka!!!! Thats what i was looking for. Thanks man


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## No0dles

i just do 15-20% water changes in my 75g and never add sh*t my p's are fine and i've had them for over 3+ years


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## dschoter05

No0dLeMicE said:


> i just do 15-20% water changes in my 75g and never add sh*t my p's are fine and i've had them for over 3+ years


Interesting do you readings spike after you change your water.


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## No0dles

honestly the last time i checked after i did a water change was like 2 years ago haha but if it did it was very very minimal not enough to really notice. if you meant do i get mini-cycles? NEVER! P's are always HEALTHY

:edit:
and, the PH outta tap(hard water) is 7.6


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## dschoter05

No0dLeMicE said:


> honestly the last time i checked after i did a water change was like 2 years ago haha but if it did it was very very minimal not enough to really notice. if you meant do i get mini-cycles? NEVER! P's are always HEALTHY
> 
> :edit:
> and, the PH outta tap(hard water) is 7.6


Do you have well water or city water???


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## No0dles

city water...straight out the gutters haha


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## dschoter05

No0dLeMicE said:


> city water...straight out the gutters haha


You should def. be adding some type of conditioner to your water to remove the chlorine. How big is your tank and how big of water changes do you do??


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## No0dles

i do 15-25% water changes every sunday sometimes i do a little less in my 55G


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## dschoter05

No0dles said:


> i do 15-25% water changes every sunday sometimes i do a little less in my 55G


Im no expert but I think you should be adding conditioner to remove the chlorine. You should start a new topic to see what everyone thinks of this.


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## No0dles

yeah good point...i know a little doesnt hurt fish but i just recently read that it can do harm over time. and since this was brought up im going to be adding aquasafe next change and everyone after that just to be on the safe side.


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## Plowboy

The conditioner is more important for protecting your cycle from chlorine than protecting your fish.


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## vincecarder

I've been using Prime for years when I do my 10-15% water changes. Love the product, my fish have always been healthy and I recommend Prime to anyone. If your not using something like Prime when your adding water, especially a larger water change, I suggest you start. P's are strong but adding water straight to the tank like that will have some bad effects in the long run.


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## dschoter05

No0dles said:


> yeah good point...i know a little doesnt hurt fish but i just recently read that it can do harm over time. and since this was brought up im going to be adding aquasafe next change and everyone after that just to be on the safe side.


. I have used both aquasafe and prime. I think prime is better. It will also detoxicfy your nitrates, and you get more for your money.


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## the_w8

It's good to use some sort of conditioner. By not using any conditioner will result in long term damage. Back in the hay day when I was newer to the game I did it and seen that what looked like "brownish" gills in my red bellies and they would kinda sit there and move/pump there gills like mad which meant chlorine/chloramine poinsoning I believe.

Your not always going to have sick or dying P's if you don't condition your water, but it's a good idea to do it jus for the sake of the P's health. Every municipal has different qualities of water so it's a good idea to get into the habit of conditioning your water. I myself use stress coat/Amquel. It's always worked for me and will continue to use it.


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## No0dles

thanks for the input guys, i will definitely be using the rest of this aquasafe i have and then i'll probably start using prime since it's been recommended a lot on another forum as well.


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## FEEFA

WillieWonka1 said:


> Good stuff!
> 
> Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.


I'm pretty sure if he's using prime he's got the bottle and can read.

I have a python also... *for water changes, all I do is add for the water that I'm replacing and pour the prime into the flow of water that I'm adding to the tank.
*[/quote]

That's what I do and I've never had a problem. I do 50% water changes on my 150gal and I add a capfull when I first start adding water then I add another capfull when the tank is almost full.
.


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## gtc

Feefa said:


> Good stuff!
> 
> Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.


I'm pretty sure if he's using prime he's got the bottle and can read.

I have a python also... *for water changes, all I do is add for the water that I'm replacing and pour the prime into the flow of water that I'm adding to the tank.
*[/quote]

That's what I do and I've never had a problem. I do 50% water changes on my 150gal and I add a capfull when I first start adding water then I add another capfull when the tank is almost full.
.
[/quote]
Same here, i use a 10g container whenever i do my water changes and i usually put a capfull of water conditioner in every container then i put a capfull of prime in the tank when i'm done filling it up.


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