# 17gal Sw?



## Guest

So I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first SW reef tank. I was thinking about a nano tank, but the fact that the params can go whack quickly put me off. So what I do have is a 17gal/66l that has nothing in it. The canopy has a single 15w T8 lamp yet I am willing to upgrade to better lighting if I need to.
I want to start a reef tank, preferably not very demanding species, all I really want is a nice looking reef with a clown fish or two and some cleaner shrimp.
What equipment do I need? What would be suitable stock for the tank? 
I have a spare external filter rated at 600l/h though I am willing to upgrade this as well.

Tank dimensions are 23"w,14"h,12"d.
Cheers guys,
JK

ps. I'll be buying aquarium water for top offs and water changes till I get an RO/DI unit.


----------



## sick fish man

Your going to want atleast high output t5 lighting, metal halide, or reef LED lighting. You should also look up the aquaclear 70 refugium modification. This will allow you to keep chaetomorphae algae for nutrient export. A protein skimmer would also be a nice addition as it will help with organic waste. If you can put add a sump this would probably be best because it could then house a refugium, protein skimmer, and a deep sand bed. There are several theories as to what should be done with the sand bed. It's up to you to decide whether you want a shallow sand bed, deep sand bed, or bare bottom. Personally I like the shallow sand bed with a deep sand bed in another chamber hidden from view. It would be quickest to get your tank cycled with live sand which can be bought at the local fish store. I would think the 2 clowns would be the most fish you could have in that size tank. Don't use the external filter unless you're going to put macro algae in it. Also get some live rock and powerheads so you have good flow through the tank. Live rock is cheapest on craigslist. otherwise it can be around 10-12$ a pound at the LFS.


----------



## hyphen

Traveller said:


> So I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first SW reef tank. I was thinking about a nano tank, but the fact that the params can go whack quickly put me off. So what I do have is a 17gal/66l that has nothing in it. The canopy has a single 15w T8 lamp yet I am willing to upgrade to better lighting if I need to.


the main issue with nano tanks is the evaporation and maintaining the proper SG. an auto top off unit will remedy this easily. other problems like nitrate build up and trace elements diminishing can be fixed by simply doing a water change every 1-2 weeks.



> I want to start a reef tank, preferably not very demanding species, all I really want is a nice looking reef with a clown fish or two and some cleaner shrimp.
> What equipment do I need? What would be suitable stock for the tank?


soft corals are very forgiving and very easy to keep. all the usual saltwater equipment will be necessary. soft corals don't require much more care than your average fish. they generally don't need to be fed and aren't too light demanding. some can actually be pretty difficult to kill. i would say to look into zoas (some of the more rare types can be stunning), mushrooms, ricordias, pulsing xenia and leathers.



> I have a spare external filter rated at 600l/h though I am willing to upgrade this as well.
> 
> Tank dimensions are 23"w,14"h,12"d.
> Cheers guys,
> JK
> 
> ps. I'll be buying aquarium water for top offs and water changes till I get an RO/DI unit.


external hang on filter? if it's a hang on back filter then it would be recommended to take out all of the media and instead place some live rock rubble or macro algae in there with a small led over it.


----------



## CLUSTER ONE

What is your budget?

An ideal setup IMO with approximate prices would be:

70-150w(200$)MH light (150w would allow you pretty much any corals-if you only want easy coral a cheaper (100$) dual t5 will work for soft corals. Your light now may work for somethign like mushrooms but you would be much better off with a dual t5 though they come in 24" so there would be abit of overhang

At this tank size you do not need a protein skimmer though you could get a remora or tunze nano (100$ used, 160$ new). For your setup a hob remora would probably be better as tunze are in AIO or in sump. For soft corals you will be fine with just water changes though if you venture into hard corals you will probably want to add this.

hydor k1 powerhead (30$)

ac110 or other large hob filter for current (instead you could get a second powerhead but a hob will hold some chemical media if you want)

jager heater (30$)

argronite (30$)

refractometer (ideal) or hydrometer (10$-$80)

AIO (100$) great to have though more of a luxury. You can survive without one just top up regularly.


----------



## Guest

Thanks for the replies guys








The filter is an external canister filter, I'm really not looking to build a sump for a tank so small, so I will look into some hang on the back filters if those are better.
So what are the essential pieces of kit I need to keep 2 clowns and some soft corrals?

edit:
Thanks cluster, I really don't have a set budget on this one. But seeing that it's my first SW tank I'd rather not spend a ton seeing that it's a small tank and I might not enjoy it once it's up and running.


----------



## CLUSTER ONE

Traveller said:


> Thanks for the replies guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The filter is an external canister filter, I'm really not looking to build a sump for a tank so smallI have a sump on my 15g lol, so I will look into some hang on the back filters if those are better.
> So what are the essential pieces of kit I need to keep 2 clowns and some soft corrals?
> 
> edit:
> Thanks cluster, I really don't have a set budget on this one. But seeing that it's my first SW tank I'd rather not spend a ton seeing that it's a small tank and I might not enjoy it once it's up and running.


 A cannister will work since you have it but I would run it no media.

I would do (on a budget)

(100$) 24" dual t5
(30$) k1 powerhead
(30$) 100W (approx) JAGER heater
(10$-80$) refractometer or hydromketer
(40$) salt bucket
random things (thermometer, mixing buckets, algae scrapers...)
Livestock...


----------



## Guest

sweet, thanks cluster.
Can't wait to get started on this one.


----------



## Guest

OK so I bought my first basic supplies. Here's what I got so far:

LumenAqua LED Max 200 LINK
Taam Rio Nano Skimmer LINK
Taam Rio Hang on back Wet/dry LINK
Hydor Theo 200w Heater LINK
20 lbs. Bag CaribSea Ocean Direct Oolite live sand LINK
6 lbs. Kent Reef Salt Mix LINK
SeaChem Stability LINK
Hydrometer
The tank 60cm X 30cm X 37cm 17.62 gal

I just got done spray painting the back of the tank a nice royal blue and haven't mix the salt yet or anything cause I want to be sure I'm heading in the right direction.

I don't have an RO/DI unit and the only one I found was $450 for a 3 stage so I said F that, I'll order one online later. I do however have filtered water, which when I tested it comes out at pH 7.3, 0 ammo, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and using an API phosphate kit 0.5 . I currently have to use this water till I get my hands on an RO/DI unit which could be a good month or so. I checked with my guy at the LFS and was suprised when he told me he uses the same water, and says all other reef shops do too. He said they don't use RO/DI cause a lot of people don't have the system so if he was using RO/DI water when people would buy corrals and fish from him they'd die.

So my question now is, should a buy a Koralia 1,2,3? 
When should I put live rock in? 
What else do I need to do to get this tank up and running and reef ready?
Should I buy Seachem aquavitro Alpha LINK or any other products (something to dechlorinate the water, I have Tetra Aquasafe but not sure if there's some special reef stuff).

ps. Going to buy a API master SW test kit tomorrow with everything else I need.


----------



## hyphen

the guy's logic is dumb. they don't use ro/di because they're cheap and replacing the filters, resin, and membrane would get too expensive and is too much overhead for them. anyway, definitely buy an ro system. every serious reef aquarist will tell you to do so for a reason. if theres anything everyone learns somewhere down the line is that you should NEVER trust a fish store worker.

if you absolutely must use non-ro water then yes, get some dechlorinator but i can't stress enough how much clean water will help your system. i know this from experience, twice. you've already spent all this money on other equipment, you might as well buy at least a 50gpd system, even if it's just ro and not ro/di. you can get them for like $130-$150 online.

right now all iwould suggest is to buy some live rock. 1lb/gallon is recommended if you're using the berlin method. but if your stock and bioload will be low then you can use less. after you get the live rock in there you're ready to let it cure.


----------



## Guest

I'm definitely going to be getting an RO/DI unit, no question about it as I want to use it on my FW tanks too but the only thing I found in the market here is a 3 stage for $450 forgot what the gpd was but it was low and there is no way I'm going to spend that much on such a rubbish unit (plastic felt flimsy too). I'm going to be ordering one online but it'll take a while to get here.
So are there any special products I should get, I saw all these different reef stuff and I just got overwhelmed with all the water conditioning products offered for reefs.


----------



## sick fish man

phosphates are not good. This will cause nuisance algae and cyanobacteria to grow.


----------



## Guest

sick fish man said:


> phosphates are not good. This will cause nuisance algae and cyanobacteria to grow.


I know that which is why I mentioned the reading. Will something like PhosGuard help until I get an RO/DI?


----------



## CLUSTER ONE

Traveller said:


> OK so I bought my first basic supplies. Here's what I got so far:
> 
> LumenAqua LED Max 200 LINKshould work fine though i know nothing about this specific unit
> Taam Rio Nano Skimmer LINKI would of passed on this one
> Taam Rio Hang on back Wet/dry LINKI probably would of went with an aquaclear though this should be fine
> Hydor Theo 200w Heater LINK
> 20 lbs. Bag CaribSea Ocean Direct Oolite live sand LINK
> 6 lbs. Kent Reef Salt Mix LINK
> SeaChem Stability LINK
> Hydrometer
> The tank 60cm X 30cm X 37cm 17.62 gal
> 
> I just got done spray painting the back of the tank a nice royal blue and haven't mix the salt yet or anything cause I want to be sure I'm heading in the right direction.
> 
> I don't have an RO/DI unit and the only one I found was $450 for a 3 stage so I said F that,You were from africa or something like that right? There are plenty of places liek bluk reef supply that will ship. Even after shipping im sure it would be less then 450$ for a unit I'll order one online later. I do however have filtered water, which when I tested it comes out at pH 7.3, 0 ammo, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and using an API phosphate kit 0.5 . I currently have to use this water till I get my hands on an RO/DI unit which could be a good month or so. I checked with my guy at the LFS and was suprised when he told me he uses the same water, and says all other reef shops do too. He said they don't use RO/DI cause a lot of people don't have the system so if he was using RO/DI water when people would buy corrals and fish from him they'd die.That is wrong. Just see how good this water is. If it isn't giving you diatom or other algae outbreaks it could work though with detectable phosphates id think you would get at least diatoms
> 
> So my question now is, should a buy a Koralia 1,2,3? On my 15g I have a overflow box with a 350gph return in addition to a k1 to give you an idea. Good flow is crutial to a sucsess in sw. I would go with a k1. K2 could work but it may be abit strong
> 
> When should I put live rock in? right away. Dieoff from it can help start the cycle before adding fish or inverts
> What else do I need to do to get this tank up and running and reef ready?
> Should I buy Seachem aquavitro Alpha LINK or any other products (something to dechlorinate the water, I have Tetra Aquasafe but not sure if there's some special reef stuff).
> 
> ps. Going to buy a API master SW test kit tomorrow with everything else I need.


----------



## hyphen

Traveller said:


> phosphates are not good. This will cause nuisance algae and cyanobacteria to grow.


I know that which is why I mentioned the reading. Will something like PhosGuard help until I get an RO/DI?
[/quote]

im not sure what is in phosguard. what you essentially want to do is use media with GFO in it (granular ferric oxide). it absorbs phosphates and unlike some of the other phosphate controlling media it won't release it back into the water when it's used up. it's also not just phosphates that you have to worry about, its the other minerals and deposits that might get into the water column. iodine, lead, and some other heavy metals can really screw with your parameters.

anyway, i personally use chemi-pure elite, "elite" has GFO in it while plain chemi-pure does not. if you wanted to get a little techy you could add a phosban or brs reactor and run plain gfo in it. it's a good idea to have some sort of phosphate export method. whether it be running gfo, growing macro algae or dosing vodka.


----------

