# Salt Diary



## wizardslovak

hello people
so after seeing my friend tank i decided ill change my 29 gall into salt water








So far i got 
29 gall tank , 10 gall tank (sump) , 30 lbs of live sand , heater , powerhead

Thinks i am waiting for 
40lbs of some live rock

Stuff i need advice for 
Ro/Di system , salt mix, lights

For Water filter i think about this one 
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-5-stage-plus-system.htmlv

its good price and failry good reviews

Salt mixes 
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/fish-supplies/saltwater-aquarium-salt-water-mix/ps/c/3578/4685

And lights i have no idea ..
Am i missing something?


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## Ægir

For salt I love Reef crystals... if you watch some places online they offer free shipping for 99$ and over or something like that, so its worth buying 2 or 3 boxes and having them on hand. You can replace them once they offer the sale again. I have used Petsolutions many times, and they shipped 420 lbs of sand, 6 buckets of salt mix and some other things COMPLETELY free. The UPS guy doesnt appreciate orders like that









For rocks, check out marcorocks.com and get some dry base rock... it will cure as you cycle the tank, and you can seed it with a small piece of live rock saving tons of money, and GUARANTEE no hitchhikers

When it comes to filters, you can get a cheaper 5 stage unit and when it comes time replace it with higher end filters. The important thing is 0TDS, not who makes your filter housings. Also, get a TDS meter (inline works best) to get better life out of your filters, and not replace them too early or put bad water in your tank. I used a 6 stage housing from ebay, and then replaced the filters with ones from marinedepot...

What are you doing for an overflow and return pump? Skimmer?


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## wizardslovak

Well i am thinking of 10 gall sump/refugium with some pump 4-7 turnover rate , and about skimmers i have no clue , i thought maybe you people can help me with ti

btw thank you for info about saltmix


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## CLUSTER ONE

Are you doing coral? if so what type? The type of coral/fish do you want will determine the light you need and how good of a skimmer you need.

What you plan to stock will also impact the type of salt you want to get. For fowlr to soft corals a cheaper salt like instant ocean will be fine. If you want to try any lps or sps you may want a bit better salt like reef crystals


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## wizardslovak

nah i wont do coral for now , i just wasnt few shrimp and clown fish , thats all


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## CLUSTER ONE

For light if you are not doing coral you can do pretty much any type. Something like a 50/50 bulb will be good for whatever light you chose so you are not promoting bad algaes. If you want some simple soft corals like mushrooms now or in the future you could do a 2 bulb HO t5. A fixture like this new will cost around 100$

For your tank size your just in the size for probably wanting a skimmer. I'd suggest getting a tunze nano or aqua c remora. Either will run you about 150$. You don't nessisarily need one if you do more frequent water changes but it would help.

How are you setting up your sump?

A hydrometer/refractometer is something else you will need. A recractometer is alot better but they cost 50$ plus while you can get a hygrometer alot cheaper. For your purposes a hydrometer will be fine though if you have the $ to spend getting a refractometer now would be better.


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## wizardslovak

HEllo
So finally i got little time off from work and i can come back to Sw setup

So far i have crushed coral sand , live rock coralife super skimmer (waiting for o ring) ac 110 filter , ceramic media and 18 w coralife light ...... oo yea 20 lb or instant ocean hehe

What am i missing? how long will live rock remain live in plastic bag?


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## CLUSTER ONE

wizardslovak said:


> HEllo
> So finally i got little time off from work and i can come back to Sw setup
> 
> So far i have crushed coral sand , live rock coralife super skimmer (waiting for o ring) ac 110 filter , ceramic media and 18 w coralife light ...... oo yea 20 lb or instant ocean hehe
> 
> What am i missing? how long will live rock remain live in plastic bag?


Watch with crushed coral as it can trap debris and casue nitrate spikes. coralife SS also isn't the best skimmer though it should be fine for a FOWLR or softies tank.

Were you doing a sump still or just hob? If it is just hob now i would add a powerhead too. Watch the ceramic rings for the same reason as the crushed coral. You shoudl be fine with just current, a skimmer and waterchanges so I probably wouldn't even do any media like that. 18W light probably won't do any corals (mushrooms or somethign may work though im not sure). For a 40g system I would pickup a bucket of salt. 20lbs I beleive would be a bag with salt for 50g so that woudl be used pretty quick. A bucket has salt for 160g. You can often find buckets on sale for 30-45$ which is alot cheaper then paying for bags


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## wizardslovak

i got bag for 200 gall 
skimmer well i got it for 20 without oring

I washed sand , so many times , untill water was coming out clean but i put it into the tank and water is milky .... should i wait for it to settle?


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## CLUSTER ONE

wizardslovak said:


> i got bag for 200 gall if it is for 200g it will be a 5g pail not a bag
> skimmer well i got it for 20 without oring
> 
> I washed sand , so many times , untill water was coming out clean but i put it into the tank and water is milky .... should i wait for it to settle?


I would let it settle. you could try a hob filter if you already have one with just filter floss to help clear it quicker

If you gotthe skimmer that cheap you may as well use it. If you go reef you may want a larger one but it will work well enough on a smaller tank then rated for that is fowlr. Im sure you could probably sell it for 50$ anyways after you get an oring if you ever decided to upgrade skimmers


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## wizardslovak

well oring is on way , should be here in few days ... Well i am not planning reef , just few live rock , pair of clown fish some shrimp and thats it ... This is my first try so i want something not that hard ...

Added salt , checked it at 1.022 , temp is 78 , 160 gph power head , toms mini canister filter with ceramic rings.....
Water is milky but ill let it sit .......

My ac 110 shaft is out so i had to order new one .... still dont know what media i should use there....


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## wizardslovak

Update

Water cleared out , salt holds btw 1.022 and 1.023 , temp 78 steady , Added Cycle , so i am waiting for cycle to begin ....

Still waiting for o'ring and shaft







gotta get hood and better light .....

Already i am thinking about live stock , and i got really interested in lionfish


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## CLUSTER ONE

You may be able to get a dwarf lionfish though i beleive they should have abit larger of tanks. There are a few toby puffers that would work.


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## Ægir

CLUSTER ONE said:


> You may be able to get a dwarf lionfish though i believe they should have abit larger of tanks. There are a few toby puffers that would work.


I would advise against dwarf lions for a few reasons, it will prob be the only fish you can have (or will become the only fish after eating everything), and will prob eat hermit crabs, snails and any other moving thing in your tank. They also love shrimp and will easily pick them off...
They eventually make tank work a problem... because they associate your hand with food, and follow it everywhere. You will need to use a divider of some sort and clean 1/2 at a time...

29 gal stock list that would be active and friendly? Firefish, dwarf angel, pair of clowns (not tomato!), goby or blenny (some dont get along in smaller tanks) pair of coral banded shrimp, or cleaner shrimp... get a decent light and have a single anemone for the clowns if ya want. STAY away from damsels... they get mean and are hard to remove.

Some fish will eventually need a bigger tank, so buy them smaller and grow them out... im sure by then you will want to upgrade anyways.


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## Spilo26

I'm really fond of pistol shrimp and shrimp goby combo. It's cool to watch them dig their burrows in the sand.


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## wizardslovak

Ægir said:


> You may be able to get a dwarf lionfish though i believe they should have abit larger of tanks. There are a few toby puffers that would work.


I would advise against dwarf lions for a few reasons, it will prob be the only fish you can have (or will become the only fish after eating everything), and will prob eat hermit crabs, snails and any other moving thing in your tank. They also love shrimp and will easily pick them off...
They eventually make tank work a problem... because they associate your hand with food, and follow it everywhere. You will need to use a divider of some sort and clean 1/2 at a time...

29 gal stock list that would be active and friendly? Firefish, dwarf angel, pair of clowns (not tomato!), goby or blenny (some dont get along in smaller tanks) pair of coral banded shrimp, or cleaner shrimp... get a decent light and have a single anemone for the clowns if ya want. STAY away from damsels... they get mean and are hard to remove.

Some fish will eventually need a bigger tank, so buy them smaller and grow them out... im sure by then you will want to upgrade anyways.









[/quote]

Thank you for info









Well i was thinking get Black and White Ocellaris and ocellaris clownfish







Then some shrimps








I backed off from lionfish ..... maybe one day when i get bigger tank


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## CLUSTER ONE

I agree with agir that lions are cool but it sucks that they need to be solitary though that is similar to other things like mantis shrimp and even piranhas. It would be a cool solo species tank but wouldn't have the activity of a tank with multiple small fish.

Clowns and shrimp wouuld be nice.


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## Tonynlo

CLUSTER ONE said:


> A hydrometer/refractometer is something else you will need. A recractometer is alot better but they cost 50$ plus while you can get a hygrometer alot cheaper. For your purposes a hydrometer will be fine though if you have the $ to spend getting a refractometer now would be better.


I'll chime in on this one. Don't bother with a hydrometer. No sense in spending money on an inaccurate reading. I have done multiple comparison tests between the two at different salinity levels and temperatures only to find out that the hydrometer is way off the line. Spend a couople bucks on a refractometer it's worth it.

It's not good for a fish to have a swing in salinity. It's not terribly bad when it drops a bit, but if you are adding new saltwater for a water change and the salinity suddenly rises, it's very stressful for them.

Below are the few pieces of equipment that most people will skimp out on by either not having one or buying low quality:

Refractometer
RO/DI unit - or buy water from the LFS
Quality test kits - salifert makes a very reliable kit
Skimmer
Powerheads

A few tips:
Saving money up front, will cost you more in the long run. 
Don't take drastic measures to correct water parameters, adjust them slowly.
Do your own research on livestock and other products - Don't just do what somebody tells you to do, or buy the item that has the best review


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## Guest

Tonynlo said:


> A hydrometer/refractometer is something else you will need. A recractometer is alot better but they cost 50$ plus while you can get a hygrometer alot cheaper. For your purposes a hydrometer will be fine though if you have the $ to spend getting a refractometer now would be better.


I'll chime in on this one. Don't bother with a hydrometer. No sense in spending money on an inaccurate reading. I have done multiple comparison tests between the two at different salinity levels and temperatures only to find out that the hydrometer is way off the line. Spend a couople bucks on a refractometer it's worth it.

It's not good for a fish to have a swing in salinity. It's not terribly bad when it drops a bit, but if you are adding new saltwater for a water change and the salinity suddenly rises, it's very stressful for them.

Below are the few pieces of equipment that most people will skimp out on by either not having one or buying low quality:

Refractometer
RO/DI unit - or buy water from the LFS
Quality test kits - salifert makes a very reliable kit
Skimmer
Powerheads

A few tips:
Saving money up front, will cost you more in the long run. 
Don't take drastic measures to correct water parameters, adjust them slowly.
*Do your own research on livestock and other products - Don't just do what somebody tells you to do, or buy the item that has the best review*
[/quote]

Often the item with the best reviews is the best item. It's what these forums are for, asking for opinions and experiences to help people make an informed decision. No one here would benefit from someone purchasing a particular fish unless they are selling it. Same goes for products, and how would someone research these products with out asking or reading reviews?


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## CLUSTER ONE

^I agree i have no idea what he is saying with that.

Don't just listen to the lfs guy trying to sell stuff. Check online reviews, forum topics using the products, youtube vids, online product rightups... Usually you can find a "best____" topic on some forum that will give you a good choice.

I agree on refractometer over hydrometer but I disagree that hydrometers are useless. For FOWLR they are perfectly adequet to get the job done. Not perfectly accurate but many people use them with fine results.


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## Tonynlo

Salinity swings are horrible for fish. It's a very well known fact. An accurate reading is just as important for FOWLR as it is for reef. I have played around with 3 hydrometers that have all read approximately 1.025 while a calibrated refractometer is reading anywhere between 1.019-1.032!

When I mentioned reading reviews and not just taking the highest rating... I was more or less referring to the reviews people post on retail web sites. Also, what is to say that a product is going to work for user A just because it works for user B? They will be using them in entirely different setups. Example... Why would somebody buffer high ph 2 part when they already have high ph? This is why doing your own research and not just taking someone else's opinion (because they have a great looking system) is by far the best route to a successful tank.


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## Guest

Tonynlo said:


> Salinity swings are horrible for fish. It's a very well known fact. An accurate reading is just as important for FOWLR as it is for reef. I have played around with 3 hydrometers that have all read approximately 1.025 while a calibrated refractometer is reading anywhere between 1.019-1.032!
> 
> When I mentioned reading reviews and not just taking the highest rating... I was more or less referring to the reviews people post on retail web sites. Also, what is to say that a product is going to work for user A just because it works for user B? They will be using them in entirely different setups. Example... Why would somebody buffer high ph 2 part when they already have high ph? This is why doing your own research and not just taking someone else's opinion (because they have a great looking system) is by far the best route to a successful tank.


When was that happening in this topic? And when did the OP say tell me what to do I can't make decisions on my own as I have absolutely no ability to think?

Your on a forum to give advice and take it if you want, if you feel the need to talk about reviews on websites go complain there about it not here.


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## shiver905

You 2 need to calm down,
If you guys want to call each other out do it threw a PM or Get each other adresses and fist it out. Take a video because all of us would love to see it.

Hes my advice, A Refractormeter will save you time.
In this hobby you must try to make maintenence as easy as possible. 
Theres enough bitch work involved, You dont want to do more then you have to.

Also, Its a one time buy. Spend the extra few dollars get a good acurate reading and save some time.

Good Luck with what ever you decide.


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## Tonynlo

Traveller said:


> Salinity swings are horrible for fish. It's a very well known fact. An accurate reading is just as important for FOWLR as it is for reef. I have played around with 3 hydrometers that have all read approximately 1.025 while a calibrated refractometer is reading anywhere between 1.019-1.032!
> 
> When I mentioned reading reviews and not just taking the highest rating... I was more or less referring to the reviews people post on retail web sites. Also, what is to say that a product is going to work for user A just because it works for user B? They will be using them in entirely different setups. Example... Why would somebody buffer high ph 2 part when they already have high ph? This is why doing your own research and not just taking someone else's opinion (because they have a great looking system) is by far the best route to a successful tank.


When was that happening in this topic? And when did the OP say tell me what to do I can't make decisions on my own as I have absolutely no ability to think?

Your on a forum to give advice and take it if you want, if you feel the need to talk about reviews on websites go complain there about it not here.
[/quote]

Why not read my post again. Kthxbai


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## Guest

Tonynlo said:


> Salinity swings are horrible for fish. It's a very well known fact. An accurate reading is just as important for FOWLR as it is for reef. I have played around with 3 hydrometers that have all read approximately 1.025 while a calibrated refractometer is reading anywhere between 1.019-1.032!
> 
> When I mentioned reading reviews and not just taking the highest rating... I was more or less referring to the reviews people post on retail web sites. Also, what is to say that a product is going to work for user A just because it works for user B? They will be using them in entirely different setups. Example... Why would somebody buffer high ph 2 part when they already have high ph? This is why doing your own research and not just taking someone else's opinion (because they have a great looking system) is by far the best route to a successful tank.


When was that happening in this topic? And when did the OP say tell me what to do I can't make decisions on my own as I have absolutely no ability to think?

Your on a forum to give advice and take it if you want, if you feel the need to talk about reviews on websites go complain there about it not here.
[/quote]

Why not read my post again. Kthxbai
[/quote]
I would but the grammatical errors hurt my eyes.


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## CLUSTER ONE

Tonynlo said:


> When I mentioned reading reviews and not just taking the highest rating... I was more or less referring to the reviews people post on retail web sites. Also, what is to say that a product is going to work for user A just because it works for user B? They will be using them in entirely different setups. Example... Why would somebody buffer high ph 2 part when they already have high ph? This is why doing your own research and not just taking someone else's opinion (because they have a great looking system) is by far the best route to a successful tank.


 I agree with this on don't look for reviews on retail websites as even crappy products have good reviews. Get the info from some forum or something where a hobbiest with no connection to the product says it is good or bad.


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