# I NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!&#33



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

Can a call python be kept in a 55 gallon long tank and if so how lond ohh and how big do they get


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

is it for a fish or a reptile

Here this is all u need to know http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/ its good if ur a begginer to balls :rasp:


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

thanks a lot man for going to te trouble just for my question so i also heard that tey are not agressive at all unless through shedding skin


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

sounds like you have alot of reading to do


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

IMO, fish tanks really aren't the best things to keep reptiles in. They need customization (mainly in the secure-fitting top area) to be good. Also, 12" wide is definately a problem.


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

ohhh and u need a reptile tank to use becuz u need proper lighting to help the snake be at a normal temp. and also buddy if you want the snake for aggression dont get one, enjoy the beauty, and at times when its mean! please


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

froogle said:


> ohhh and u need a reptile tank to use becuz u need proper lighting to help the snake be at a normal temp. and also buddy if you want the snake for aggression dont get one, enjoy the beauty, and at times when its mean! please


a ball python needs NO light man-- a heat pad under the tank works best-- and aggression depends on the snake... just like the p's


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

i also heard that ball pythons were very placid normally and how should i design the tank to fit the snakes needs


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

thanks u guys im sure ill be posting pics up and how big is there max size i read somethin about it and it said 3 feet is that right


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

probably 3-5 or so on length of a ball... they get pretty fat tho and yes typically balls are very tame(there are exceptions) - wont hurt that much to get bit anyways... just lay some newspaper down for him, get a heat pad, water dish deep enough for him to soak, and a hide box... keep his tank clean, fresh water, and weekly feedings and you should be good........ you will want to make sure that lid is snake proof tho or your not gonna have him long


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

froogle said:


> ohhh and u need a reptile tank to use becuz u need proper lighting to help the snake be at a normal temp. and also buddy if you want the snake for aggression dont get one, enjoy the beauty, and at times when its mean! please


Most snakes don't need any special lighting whatsover. All they need is proper thermoregulation, which can be accomplished through heat mats and thermostats.


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

way do u mean by snake proof


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

a lid so it wont escape. and oh yea when u clean the tank just remove the newspapers and add new ones, but make sure someone is holding or keeping an eye on the snake while your doing your work.


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

cant i have grass in there y newspaper looks mad ugly


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

oh yea sure add it on top off the grass. then uss any time u clean go out and get some more grass, its a piece of CAAKE!!! have FUN


----------



## psychofish (Jun 5, 2004)

I use repti bark in my snakes enclosure,

looks good and easy to clean.


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

alright thanks u guys one more question wats a good diet for the snake


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

mouse, rats, anything small enough thats live such as other SMALLER reptiles a lizard perhaps


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

froogle said:


> mouse, rats, anything small enough thats live such as other SMALLER reptiles a lizard perhaps


live feedings= no good!!! definetly want to do everything possible to get him to accept freshly thawed mice or rats. rats are better.......... no need to feed him lizards, just stick to rodents


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

here's a great feeding vid or two vids actually


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

those vids are pretty good ohh and i should stick to dead mice instead of live ones


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

CAPONE said:


> those vids are pretty good ohh and i should stick to dead mice instead of live ones


definetly go with dead prey!!!


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

Some snakes, especially bush babies (wild caught) and hatchlings, will not take anything but live prey. Some need to be offered a live prey item to "get them rolling" on feeding. Of course, they should be put onto frozen or pre-killed as quickly as possible, but if it's a matter of the snake eating or not, you must do what you need to do to get it to eat. Ball Pythons are known to be difficult feeders.


----------



## brutusbeefcake (Dec 8, 2004)

they will take it sooner or later... if you have to,,,, place it in some warm water(covered in a baggy)... then take some tongs and dangle the thing infront of the snakes face....................itll work


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

I've had quite a few snakes that wouldn't take any form of pre-killed food because they didn't know how to react. It's very common in hatchlings. They need live prey in order to incite a feeing response because all they're going on is instinct. They don't know what that lump of dead rodent is.

The same can happen with some wild caught snakes, especially Ball Pythons. Dangling a pre-killed or thawed rodent in front of a scared snake's face can have the exact opposite effect if the thing is apprehensive about feeding. It can actually scare them more.

They are not like fish in the respect that you can starve them into feeding. If you have to feed live to get them going on feeding in captivity, then it's something you have to do. Most will eventually come around to taking frozen or pre-killed right off tongs, but there are some that don't. Ask any breeder and they'll tell ya the same thing. My Burm wouldn't eat for two months when we got him. He didn't want to have anything to do with thawed foods. All it took was one live mouse feeding (watched carefully of course) and now he'll eat anything at any time.


----------



## MONGO  (Feb 7, 2006)

I have mine (5-6ft.) in a 30gallon for 12 years since around 1994 and hes healthy eats and chills with me..the tank might seem small but its not..he sleeps balled up under the log and I take him out as much as I can to move around and not rot in a tank..


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

damn man ur tank is fresh so i can keep a ball python in a 55


----------



## dracofish (Jul 13, 2003)

I'd say that if it's only 12" wide, then I wouldn't do it for life. If it's 18" wide, then yes.


----------



## MONGO  (Feb 7, 2006)

yea for life i wish i could go with at least a 55 but hes been fine in a 29..i do try to take him out as much as i can and for as long as i can..when he is in the tank all he does is stay under the log and hide/sleep so the tank is pretty much just a place to sleep for him

.. as for health problems hes been in a 29 for about 7 years and he has never had a problem eating and has never bit me or ever been sick

..another thing the his tank looks great in the pictures but he always moves his plants and things around to his liking lol


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

thats cool man thanks for the info is there anything else i should


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

yoe is ur 55 still for sale


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

why do u ask i think im gonna put my ball python in there


----------



## Froogle (Mar 15, 2006)

because your signature said that


----------



## CAPONE (May 18, 2006)

u could have just pm'ed me i was planning to change it


----------

