# 120 Long S. Water Build



## nataz

Here is the beginning phase of my build. After a week of thinking and sketching different designs for a stand, I decided to build this.
The stand will be 12" longer and wider than the tank itself. I want 6" of exposed natural wood around the tank with a trim covering the 
black tank trim. This as will be a slow build and probably won't touch the tank till after Christmas. Which is fine by me since Salt Water
is a waiting game. Here's a few pic's of the stand and the drain system I will use. Also, some of the equipment I have so far.

*Display Tank*
120 gal Long 60x18x26 --- four drains drilled in the far right back glass. - need to drill a return on the left side.

*Sump *
40 gal breeder 36x18x16 --- three chambers - skimmer, fuge, return pump

*Addition filtration*
20 gal long 30x12x12 --- RDSB remote deep sandbed

*Skimmer*
MSX160 - in sump

*Powerheads*
Hydor Koralia (2) #4's - Gph can't remember have to dig up box

Ecotech Marine MP40 - Gph in the ballpark of 1,000-3,000 adjustable

*Return pump*
Have a mag 12 not sure if I am going to use it or replace

*RO/DI*
Kent 4 stage RO/DI unit with Inline Dual TDS Meter

*Lights*
I have a set of 250 watt MH's and HO VHO's. Haven't put much thought into the lights yet. May go with brand new T5's,

Can't remember what else I have packed away in the garage. But, here's the pic's of my design. They are hard to read to see what is what and why.









*Top Left*
Area 1. is where the tank will sit 60x18
Area 2. trim around the bottom of tank
Area 3. 6" of exposed natural wood -- wood will be treated

*Top Right*
Area 1. Doubled up 2x4's - 3 points both ends of tank and middle
Area 2. single 2x4's in between (addition support)
Area 3. short pieces of 2x4's for the top planks 6" ones
Area 4.Outside frame will be made of 2x6's

*Bottom* 
Face of stand (rough draft) Probably change while doing it









* Drains and Returns*
Left side 1 return with a T and Shut off valve to hopefully do water changes. Below that a check valve.
Far Right 3 drains and 1 emergency drain

*How they will work*
Two(full time flowing) drains will tie into each other and feed skimmer chamber in sump. Remaining two will also tie into each other and feed RDSB. (1 flowing drain and emerg. drain)
The drain feeding the RDSB will also have 2 shut offs ( left of T and below it) and a (T-in red). If I need to remove the RDSB, I will be able to close off drain and open the shut off valve so all 4 drains feed skimmer.









Last pic shows the drains and how to build. Beananimals silent drains

As you can probably tell I am not new to SW. BUT, even with that said we all tend to forget things. Usually other people can spot them or have very good suggestions, that one may not have thought of.







Feel free to ask and or comment.

I hope to go and buy most of the wood I will need to build the stand this week. Enjoy !!


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## Ægir

Looks like you have an awesome plan so far! Great start!

A few things i would think about... dumping the RDSB into the skimmer compartment for a few reasons, sand and your pump, and also skimming any pods or beneficial things from the RDSB. If you dumped it into the fuge (which spills into the return pump) it would be great. Also, i would be diverting 60-70% of your overflow directly to your skimmer. If you moved your return pump compartment to between the skimmer and fuge, and still diverted your drain to both ends, you would keep your freshly skimmed water from flowing through the fuge and creating turbulence.

If possible, move your backflow preventer to near the pump where you can see it... Marine depot sells clear ones, with true unions on both sides so you can remove your pump and clean the inside of the backflow flapper. you can also see the flow and any obstructions in the tubing.

READ READ READ.... i have 2 build threads (hole in the wall, and my custom installs threads) with 3 tanks all about that same size (or displays atleast), you could learn from many of my mistakes and it might give you some great ideas!


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## nataz

Ægir said:


> Looks like you have an awesome plan so far! Great start!
> 
> A few things i would think about... dumping the RDSB into the skimmer compartment for a few reasons, sand and your pump, and also skimming any pods or beneficial things from the RDSB. If you dumped it into the fuge (which spills into the return pump) it would be great. Also, i would be diverting 60-70% of your overflow directly to your skimmer. If you moved your return pump compartment to between the skimmer and fuge, and still diverted your drain to both ends, you would keep your freshly skimmed water from flowing through the fuge and creating turbulence.
> 
> If possible, move your backflow preventer to near the pump where you can see it... Marine depot sells clear ones, with true unions on both sides so you can remove your pump and clean the inside of the backflow flapper. you can also see the flow and any obstructions in the tubing.
> 
> READ READ READ.... i have 2 build threads (hole in the wall, and my custom installs threads) with 3 tanks all about that same size (or displays atleast), you could learn from many of my mistakes and it might give you some great ideas!


Great idea!! I didn't think about the (points) you brought up with the sand and pods ect.

I never used the clear check valve. But! After reading your reply it will cost me less headaches if I have a issue. I normally just get the white ones and place them near a quick disconnect so I can run a bottle brush throu it every so often. I also left out a (T) near the return pump, incase I have to much flow I can revert some back to sump. (if needed)
I will fine toon the plumbing, sump, & ect ones I get the stand built. Lots to do.
But, like above post. -----> We all tend to forget things. Usually other people can spot them or have very good suggestions, that one may not have thought of. As 'Ægir' has pointed out and will have saved me from some major pump and skimmer issues. Along with a major HEADACHE!!!

Thanks for the input !!! Keep it coming.


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## His Majesty

Egir made some great points. 
reading through other peoples build threads is always a great way to learn

But you seem to have set yourself up a solid looking plan. I will definelty follow your progress. keep us updated on the build


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## shiver905

Dont use check valves on the tank,
They are known to fail in SW applications,

Design your sump so it hold all the water until the syphon breaks.. You can alwyas make your own syphon breakers with a hole on your return or drain.

Glad to see your planning everything


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## Ægir

shiver905 said:


> Dont use check valves on the tank,
> They are known to fail in SW applications,
> 
> Design your sump so it hold all the water until the syphon breaks.. You can alwyas make your own syphon breakers with a hole on your return or drain.
> 
> Glad to see your planning everything


You can use them, just dont rely on them... like you said, have the space for extra water if they fail, but its nice to not have to deal with the backflow when you are feeding or whatever. The ones from marine depot are great because they are clear so you can see when they need cleaning, and have true unions on both sides so its easy!

I had siphon breaks, backflow flappers, and an extra 80 gals of space in my sump on the bowfront, and never had a problem with the backflow valve failing...


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## nataz

I hope to start building the frame of my stand Monday or Tuesday. I picked up the 2x4's this week.
I also snagged a few extra tools and three wood samples for the facing of stand.

Light red Oak, Poplar,& Pine









3.5" lags with T20 heads









new Dewalt 14 pc. set to replace my old one.









Kreg pocket jig









Some clamps, kreg screws, razor blades, and stuff listed above









As for the check valve. I use one on all my returns. Granted they are not needed, but extra security for a few extra buck. I set my sump up to handle the water that will drain from my main tank if power goes out.. My return also has a tiny hole to suck air and break the flow. But for 8-10 bucks more I would rather have it installed and not need it and need it and not have it.

I also trashed the stand design. I have 2 new designs, that I will pick from this weekend while at work. 
One is like the above and the other is more like a entertainment center style. Tank on stand and a bookcase on both sides with the canopy connecting the two book cases.


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## nataz

Well here's an update since everyone is on the end of there seat waiting for one.









I have the frame of the stand built and will be going monday to get the sheet of wood I will cover the top and use for the floor of stand. Will try to get a pic or two. After that I will be working on the finish look.

Equipment, I ordered a Sequence Reeflo Dart Water Pump for a close-loop. I will be running ZERO, yes zero powerheads. I really don't care for the look and won't need them. I also will not be running my Vortex MP40.

Link to pump: http://www.aquacave.com/sequence-reeflo-dartbr-water-pump-525.html

I am installing a Ocean Motion 8-WAY for all my flow with the Dart pump. 
Link to OM : http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/?osCsid=5644d04735070648d1943d700801e7ad

Last I grabbed a American DJ PC-100A 8 Channel Power Strip with Lighted Toggles. Only bought one and I may grab another.
Link to see it: http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-PC-100A-Channel-Lighted/dp/B0002GL50Q

Moving along slow, but hope to start filling it up early January. Still alot to do.
1.make coast to coast overflow box.
2.set sump up with baffles
3.figure out plumbing from overflow and run it.
4.return pump plumbing
5.Somehow pull off plumbing the 8-way OM.
6.build canopy
7.install lights
8. list goes on and on ......


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## Ægir

Still on the right track!

A few thoughts, i would use the OM 4 way, and split the outputs inside the tank with locline and nozzles... It will save you troubles with plumbing, and doesnt provide much benefit having 8. If you are set on 8, use 2 4 ways incase of break down... would hate to see your tank loose most its flow!

If you want help with plumbing, send me a drawing of what you would like to see, or ideas and i would love to help out... Theres also a plumbing write up i did in the DIY section... i will try to find a link


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## nataz

AEgir, sounds good. I already purchase the eight way. I thought about the 4 ways, but went with the 8 way. 
It comes with 2 drums.. see below
Version 2 - gives a delayed sequence, (ie) 1 & 2, 2 & 3, 3 & 4, 4 & 5, 5 & 6, 6 & 7, 7 & 8, repeated.

Version 3 - gives an opposed outlet sequence, (ie) 1 & 5, 2 & 6, 3 & 7, 4 & 8, repeated.

But, if something goes wrong I do have powerheads on hand and my vortex. I just would rather not use them for a cleaner look. Just something about the 8-way, maybe the plumbing challenge.









I haven't even put much thought into plumbing design yet, its going to be a project thou. I will try to come up with a blueprint or pics if you want to take a stab at it. Also, I will look for the thread you wrote up also.

I made the stand bigger so I would have extra room to keep as much as possible inside of it. I will have room to sit the Dart right behind the tank. I may put it in the stand along with the 8 way to try and prevent water getting on it thou.

Heres a little bit of info to start with.
tank is 60" long, I have four 1" bulk heads drilled on the (back) wall far right. I plan on putting the sump in the right side of the stand so it a straight shot to the sump. The Dart and 8-way on the left side of the stand. I and still debating if I am going to run a RDSB. Leaning toward no. The return I will either drill a hole in the top right side or loop it over the back. Probably won't make a difference with all the other pipes. As for the 8 way - hmm, I can either loop over the back of the tank or drill four holes for 4 of the returns or loop all eight. Since I am putting a canopy on the top you won't be able to see any of it. Only draw back to plumbing over the back is the challenge of putting a top on the tank to prevent fish from jumping. I still have alot of planning and work to do. I just hope its all worth it when I am done. :0


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## nataz

I found your thread. Damn good plumbing job !!

http://www.piranha-fury.com/pfury/index.php?/topic/180723-plumbing-diy-and-fun-projects/page__p__2328421__fromsearch__1&#entry2328421


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## Ægir

nataz said:


> I found your thread. Damn good plumbing job !!
> 
> http://www.piranha-fury.com/pfury/index.php?/topic/180723-plumbing-diy-and-fun-projects/page__p__2328421__fromsearch__1&#entry2328421


Thank you!... i have always enjoyed it for some reason. look through the "My custom installs" if you havent yet, for tons more pics and ideas: HERE Theres every combination you could want (Sump in basment, sump in stand, and GIANT sump beside 2 displays) so, it should have something useful for you. I even talk about the OM8 way as a project i want to do... but havent got around to it yet.

I had all of my returns over the back of the tank, and would have loved them to be drilled... Your tank is going to be swiss cheese with all these returns, but there should be no problems hiding everything in case you decide you want to go no canopy and a hanging light fixture.

you make a drawing of what you want to see, and i will give it a run!


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## nataz

Ægir said:


> Thank you!... i have always enjoyed it for some reason. look through the "My custom installs" if you havent yet, for tons more pics and ideas: HERE Theres every combination you could want (Sump in basment, sump in stand, and GIANT sump beside 2 displays) so, it should have something useful for you. I even talk about the OM8 way as a project i want to do... but havent got around to it yet.
> 
> I had all of my returns over the back of the tank, and would have loved them to be drilled... Your tank is going to be swiss cheese with all these returns, but there should be no problems hiding everything in case you decide you want to go no canopy and a hanging light fixture.
> 
> you make a drawing of what you want to see, and i will give it a run!


Np man, your plumbing was very neat, easy to work on, and self-explanatory.

I was thinking about the swiss cheese look. I really don't want to drill 10 to 11 more holes in the back glass. I may drill 4 holes for the 8 way and loop the other 4 lines over the back. Either use one of my current 4 holes as a return or drill a new on the far left for the return. Than either 2 - 1" holes for the drains to the pump or 1 -2" hole for the pump. (dart) Leaning toward two 1" holes spread out rather than 1 large hole which might suck a fish up against the drain cover. Plus the two spread out will add to the water movement on both sides of the tank. I have one of the PMAS members coming over when I get the 8 way and dart to. We are going to sit down and map out a plan that I will build off of it.


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## nataz

Time to bring this thread back to life.









I ended up putting this build on the back burner for a little over 9 months. After my little girls 5th B-day I decided to dust everything off and get it done.
I will prob do a leak test monday and start mixing salt.

Heres a few pics of everything dry fit.

3 drains with 1 emerg drain









8-way ocean motion -- plumbed over back of tank, didn't feel like making back glass into swiss cheese. Still have to re-install the drum and motor.










full shot


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## nataz

Photobucket is back up...

Heres a full shot of tank with lights on. Still have to clean the tank.


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## Ægir

Looking good man! When are you planning to fill it up?


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## nataz

Thank you much man !!

I finished cleaning the tank this morning and in went the water. Drains and return are working with no leaks. I decided to drain the tank so I can moved it out another 5-6" from the wall. With the extra space I will fire the 8 way up and have more room to work incase of a leak and maintance.
I also have to install ball valves on all 8 outlets, than check over all the plumbing 1 more time. After thats all done fill it up one more time for another leak test with the 8-way running.
If everything goes well start mixing salt and rock scape.

I am going with a barebottom on this setup. The 20 long fuge will have 2-3" mud with 1-2" sand on top of it with cheato. The 40 gallon breeder that the fuge is connected to will hold 2 filter socks, skimmer chamber, 2nd fuge, and return pump chamber. The second fuge will be used for extra equipement and rubble.

For lights I am going to run a coralife pc hood. Plus two 95 watt VHO bulbs.

4 - 65 watt 10k pc's with 
opt 1: 2 - 95watt vho actinic's
or
opt 2: 2 - 95watt vho 10k's
or
opt 3: 2 - 95watt vho 50/50

The pc's should give me 260 watts for 2.16 wpg and with vho's additional 190 watts for a total of 3.75 wpg. With that said I should have more than enough ligth for this setup.
I am going to try something different with this tank. No FOWL nor reef, instead I am going to try a planted marine tank. Macro algae and a few LPS corals and mushrooms. Almost all the fish will be small reef safe fish full of color darting in and out of the rock covered with greens,pinks,reds, and brown macro algae. This setup is kinda like a reef, but different. A marco algae tank need nitrates, phosphates, iron, and other trace elements to grow. I will be filling the tank up with tap water and start topping off and water changes with RODI water.

I will try to keep you posted.


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## nataz

Heres phase one of my macro algae tank. I added the red algae last week and green will be added sometime tomorrow.
Fish so far six line, orange stripe cardinal, 2 clowns, 2 fire gobies, skunk cleaner shrimp, and pep shrimp.
No QT since they are from my other setup and doing good for the last year.

full tank pic










fire gobies enjoying current from one of the eight way returns










cardinal and six line chasing food










pic with six line, clown, firefish, and cleaner shrimp starting to poke his head out from behind the rock.


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