# New to reptiles



## Piranha Guy (Oct 22, 2003)

So I was at my lps and saw that they had some different types of lizards and I was thinking about getting one but before I did I wanted to know exactly what I needed how to take care of them and all the basic newbie questions. I just want something very basic and small to put in a 10g tank. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks


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## Burf (Nov 3, 2003)

Hmm, theres not a huge amount of choice for a 10g, but i would suggeast a small gecko or perhaps an anole. I think i would probably get a bit of a bigger tank tho.


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## Atlanta Braves Baby! (Mar 12, 2003)

for a 10 gallon you should go with an anole.


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## TormenT (Apr 1, 2004)

well id go with a house gecko or a behamen(i think thats how you spell it) anole... they offer a bit more of enthusiasum to your tank than just an ordinary anole


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## Puddjuice (Mar 11, 2004)

Umm.. I don't understand. A leopard gecko can easily be housed in a 10 gallon. Maybe upgraded to a 20 gallon long but if you buy it at a baby you won't have to worrry for about a year. Just make sure you have about 85 degree temp on him at all times and 95+ degree baskin area. They eat wax worms, meal worms, and crickets. I recomend you having a non deep water dish because gthe crickets can drowned and you waste money. Also only put about 4 crickets in the tank at a time because they can harm you gecko sometimes.







Have fun picking!!!


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## Death in #'s (Apr 29, 2003)

leopard gecko's do not need a basking area they are nocturnal lizards

and for a 10g go for a pacman frog,anole,leopard geco,many frogs 
or one musk turtle


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## Down (Feb 27, 2004)

Death in # said:


> leopard gecko's do not need a basking area they are nocturnal lizards


 Basking area may be improper terminology, but they do need a heat gradient of low 80's-->mid 90's. Since many people accomplish through the use of overhead lamps (I'm a fan of UTH/lamp combos), I guess it wouldn't be that awfully incorrect. It is much preferable to use a uth since the heat aides in digestion, which is most effective coming from below.

IMO, a leo can be fine in a 10G for a looong time.

J


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## CrocKeeper (Dec 26, 2003)

> So I was at my lps and saw that they had some different types of lizards and I was thinking about getting one but before I did I wanted to know exactly what I needed how to take care of them and all the basic newbie questions. I just want something very basic and small to put in a 10g tank. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
> Thanks

























I love it when people decide to undertake some serious homework BEFORE obtaining an animal!!!

If you are decided that a 10 gallon aquarium is all you are willing to dedicate to the pursuit of a lizard, then you will have of course narrowed your options due to size. There are MANY species that can be happily housed in a 10 gallon.
You should look into smaller skink species, smaller _Sceloporus_ species (spiny lizards), smaller gecko species ( my personal favorites are the _Coleonyx_ ), smaller _Anolis_ species, etc.....

Take your time to research something you will be happy maintaining, and something you think will be fun to maintain. Do not be in a hurry, do not be afriad of looking at something that may not be "mainstream" as many of the mainstream pet store goodies are overrated..







ALL herps are rewarding captives if you take the time to seriously choose what will be right for you.



> which is most effective coming from below.


Actually it is not most effective from below, it works but is not most effective.
UTH are ok, and they do help, but they are overrated, and do not work with the physiology of most lizards, as they are geared to know when they overheat from the dorsal , not the venter.....


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## Burf (Nov 3, 2003)

Puddjuice said:


> Umm.. I don't understand. A leopard gecko can easily be housed in a 10 gallon. Maybe upgraded to a 20 gallon long but if you buy it at a baby you won't have to worrry for about a year. Just make sure you have about 85 degree temp on him at all times and 95+ degree baskin area. They eat wax worms, meal worms, and crickets. I recomend you having a non deep water dish because gthe crickets can drowned and you waste money. Also only put about 4 crickets in the tank at a time because they can harm you gecko sometimes.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 my leo was fully grown in about 8 or 9 months, so i'd say a year is a bit long to keep one in a 10g for. (i'm assuming a 10g has a footprint of about 18x10ins)
and don't go too crazy with the waxworms.

Dont forget about humid hides, vitamins/calcium powders, gutloading, the size of the substrate particles etc etc. (If you do decide towards a leopard gecko that is) , but the BASIC principles remain basically the same whatever the reptile.


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## Down (Feb 27, 2004)

CrocKeeper said:


> > which is most effective coming from below.
> 
> 
> Actually it is not most effective from below, it works but is not most effective.
> UTH are ok, and they do help, but they are overrated, and do not work with the physiology of most lizards, as they are geared to know when they overheat from the dorsal , not the venter.....


I'm surprised to hear that. I can't think of anyone I've talked to about about Leo's that hasn't preferred UTH. I can only go off of a few months experience, but I know mine showed a marked improvement when I went the UTH route (although I do prefer to use both). I can give a bit more credit to SEVERAL breeders/collectors that have had the same experience.

By no means am I disagreeing with you, I'll admit when I'm outta my league. Reptilian biology is an arena which I'm sure I come to the table lacking in.

I do find it odd, though. The arguement for UTH's I've heard is this-
Since they're nocturnal, they don't have heat beating down on them from above, they get their heat mainly from the ground (ambient air temp, too). Especially given that heat is a major aid in digestion, that POV sure seemed senseable enough to me.

I suppose one learns something new everyday, though.

J


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## CrocKeeper (Dec 26, 2003)

While we attempt to recreate a natural environ for our captives we use many different ways to heat them to get the ambient heat and gradients we seek. Sadly we will hardly ever recreate nature....my closest enclosures are completely outside enclosures that are not heated at all, of course that does limit the species kept in them.

While we are definately talking about an animal that is nocturnal, and which does deal with radiant heat from surfaces in the desert, one must realize that the deserts they come from are very warm even at night. Also one needs to realize activity in the open is limited for most of these species, and that their preferred microhabitats are chosen for the offering of stability in humidity and temperature. 
Can you obtain wonderful results with under tank heaters, heat tapes, etc.., of course, and yes many do. Is it nessecarily the best for the animal...no.
The example of commercial breeders is always used in many different arenas, and I caution such use to anyone, as you will never see the animals best interest in such arenas, do you honestly think it natural to find females bred at the early ages we breed them in captivity, or the constant association with a male leading to the constant oviposition and leaching of minerals and vitamins from her system...and yes we feed healthy diets in general, but that too leads to a shortend life span on occasion as most captive herps are actually over fed and many suffer internal damage to organs etc... due to this fact.

I like the fact that you question, and especially that you do so with some homework done. This is an essential peice of life, Fe que no duda es fe muerta ( Faith that does not question is dead faith) and one should constantly challenge concepts and thoughts, this is how we expand current knowledge after all.
I offer advice based on biological knowledge and experience, both academically, in the field and through captive husbandry. By no means are the methods I offer the sole way to keep things, as the saying states there is more than one way to skin a cat.


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## Down (Feb 27, 2004)

I love being able to question someone that has a different point of view and can back up their assertions. The only way to learn.

I'll concede the point you make on breeders, as I absolutely agree with you. I do think that purely based on their experice, they views carry some weight, it must be taken with a grain of salt. After talking with/watching breeders, I used to think that something was wrong w/ my 6 month old Leo's because they didn't weigh 65 grams yet. They grow a a (IMO) a remarkable rate, but that seems unnatural.

As far as heating req's (so I can get back on topic here), here's my revised (more thorough) thoughts based solely on my experience:

A combo of uth and lamps are the best. My house is kept at ~72 degrees or so.

With a uth, the ground would be at proper temp, but ambient air temp would be too low.

With a lamp, ambient air temp would of had to be too high to achieve proper substrate temp.

I like flexwatt heat tape (ran off a thermostat of course) and a small (50-75 W, depending on the height of cage) red bulb.

There's my "in depth" tip on heating









J


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