# Cyanobacteria



## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

So my last round of combatting this scurge in my tank didn't make it disappear altogether. But I think this time around I will have more luck because rather than just doing one thing I'm taking steps to prevent it all around by doing a bit of research.

Cyanobacteria (known by many other names to the aquarist such as blue-green, smear or slime algae) actually has a pretty interesting heritage, but in our tanks it is often caused by either a lack of maitenance, improper filtration, or both. An often related factor is over feeding, especially of fresh items such as shrimp, fish, etc. that may leave particles or pieces to rot in the tank. And let's be clear here - even though it looks like algae it is not. It is a type of bacteria.

I am using Erythromycin, a commonly available fish medication, to help treat my tank. It is available under a few names commercially. I am using "Maracyn" by Mardel because I happened to have two packages of it on hand - but a much cheaper alternative that contains the same medical ingredient is called "E.M. Tablets" from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. Typically when treating for cyanobacteria most people recommend halfing the dose of Erthromycin which is typicalled dosed at 200mg per 10 gallons of water (as per the instructions on the back of the packaging) which is simply one pill. Thus you would use one pill for every 20 gallons instead. I am deviating from this line slightly and dosing the full 1 pill per 10 gallons as at the same time I am attempting to cure the tank inhabitant - a flowerhorn - of some body fungus he contracted from an unrelated issue in the tank (drastic drop in temperature and being kept at that temperature due to an unplugged heater).

Erthromycin is available, I believe, in a powdered form. But why would you bother putting yourself through measuring if you can simply have a pill that is measured out for you? For dissolving the pills, I hang them in a net near the output of my Aquaclear 110. I typically hang them at night after lights out so that my flowerhorn doesn't try and ingest them or attack the net.

*An important thing to remember when dosing with medication such as this is to remove any carbon from your filtration system because it will pull the medication out of the water and your treatments will be useless and your money goes down the drain.*

This treatment typically runs for 5 days.

Another thing to consider that I found during my research into Cyanobacteria is that it gains its energy from Photosynthesis. Thus limiting or eliminating lighting on the tank for the duration of the treatment isn't a bad idea either. The lack of light makes the Cyanobacteria weaker and the medication will kill it off. Since 5 days can be a long time for fish to not have any light, if the tank is in the basement, you may still want to consider a short 4 hour or so window with lights on. That's just my personal opinion. If the tank is in a room where it receives some natural light then you need not worry and can leave the tank lights off altogether. A second factor I discovered is that in the wild Cyanobacteria forms in shallow, warm, slow-moving or still water. This made me think that perhaps the addition of additional flow would also help eliminate the pest though I have not yet tested this theory. The addition of small powerheads and air stones/bubblers along the bottom of the tank may cause sufficient agitation to help this cause. It makes sense, too, because for anyone that has ever experienced Cyanobacteria, you will know that it simply coats the rocks, decorations and walls of the tank but is easily removeable with the swipe of a hand or sponge. It's cling is not that tight and thus the additional flow should help.

At this point I am on my second day of treatment. Hopefully this works out alright for me in the end. I have three more days to go and then I will post my success/failure report at the end. Though even if it's not completely eliminated this time around I am hopeful that I will soon be rid of it. Otherwise I will be forced to tear down my entire set-up and use a water/bleach solution to clean the gravel, rocks, driftwood, the tank itself and my filters. That's rather drastic though and I don't feel like undertaking such a task at this point.

Hopefully this helps individuals in the future who are experiencing this problem.

Any comments/additions are welcome.


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## the_skdster (Aug 15, 2006)

You are a God among Algea Fighters!


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## Mettle (Dec 29, 2003)

I'm pleased to report that the tank appears to have been cleansed, once and for all, of the Cyanobacteria. In doing my weekly water change today I saw regular algae but none of this ugly scurge. I'm still keeping my lights on a reduced schedule for the next couple of weeks just to be sure.


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## BlackSunshine (Mar 28, 2006)

Great write up! Its important people don't let Cyno get out of hand. not only is it unslightly it can also adverslyeffect the healt of your fish.


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## Guest (Jun 29, 2007)

BlackSunshine said:


> Great write up! Its important people don't let Cyno get out of hand. not only is it unslightly it can also adverslyeffect the healt of your fish.


Mine diapeared since I do alot of water changes, I guess, but what can it do to the fish?


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