# Here it is filled with water



## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Just figured i would share these with everyone-It is in the stages of getting cleaned by the company i purchased it from-Got a basic pic of the sump also-N ehow here is the pics-


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## mike123 (Jul 17, 2006)

I can only dream of having a tank that big







. What are its dimensions?


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

mike123 said:


> I can only dream of having a tank that big
> 
> 
> 
> ...


6 foot by 4 foot wide by 3 foot tall


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## moron (May 26, 2006)

thats amazing


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## MONGO  (Feb 7, 2006)




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## Enriqo_Suavez (Mar 31, 2004)

Holy sh*t - that could be in a restaurant... I want it


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## Sheppard (Jul 8, 2004)

BEAUTIFUL!


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## Leasure1 (Jul 24, 2006)

amazing....nice work


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Jimbob_SHORTBUS said:


> amazing....nice work


Thanks-Can't really beleive I spent the money-But whats done is done-Alls i can do now is enjoy it-


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## Grosse Gurke (Jan 3, 2003)

Nice tank...but stop starting all your hobby topics on the lounge...it is for "Off topic" discussion.

Moved.


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Grosse Gurke said:


> Nice tank...but stop starting all your hobby topics on the lounge...it is for "Off topic" discussion.
> 
> Moved.


And I figured it was in the right place-since I wasn't askin ne ?'s about it-Damn was I wrong-Sorry GG









Thanks for the words about the tank-


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## RedRazor (Mar 8, 2007)

Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

RedRazor said:


> Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


Yes those run to my sump filter sir-
Thanks-does it make ne difference that there is a over flow box that is located inside my tank-
I'm really lost on this issue-


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## Moondemon (Dec 9, 2006)

Veny nice tank !!
What aren you going to put in there ??


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## werdna (Mar 15, 2005)

wow... thats one amazing tank... how much did that cost?


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Moondemon said:


> wow... thats one amazing tank... how much did that cost?


Thanks-$2800


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

AKSkirmish said:


> Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


Yes those run to my sump filter sir-
Thanks-does it make ne difference that there is a over flow box that is located inside my tank-
I'm really lost on this issue-








[/quote]

i personally would use the ones on the floor as returns... and the overflow for (duh) the overflow... you should be able to get some flexi returns and attach them to a clear tube (or pvc painted black) and have it go above water level otherwise there will be nothing stoping it from draining 500gals into your sump.... you could even reduce the size of the sump pump for more contact time with bio, and get some big canisters to go with it for more water flow... beings most powerheads are gunna be compared to a fart in a windstorm....


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

like i said i will get pics of the one in my LFS asap!


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Skunkbudfour20 said:


> Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


Yes those run to my sump filter sir-
Thanks-does it make ne difference that there is a over flow box that is located inside my tank-
I'm really lost on this issue-








[/quote]

i personally would use the ones on the floor as returns... and the overflow for (duh) the overflow... you should be able to get some flexi returns and attach them to a clear tube (or pvc painted black) and have it go above water level otherwise there will be nothing stoping it from draining 500gals into your sump.... you could even reduce the size of the sump pump for more contact time with bio, and get some big canisters to go with it for more water flow... beings most powerheads are gunna be compared to a fart in a windstorm....
[/quote]

So if I understand this right then-All's i need to do is get some tubeing the same size as the hles drilled in my tank-and make sure they go above the water line-Wont that make for a damn noisy tank though-water splashing wise that is-


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

AKSkirmish said:


> Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


Yes those run to my sump filter sir-
Thanks-does it make ne difference that there is a over flow box that is located inside my tank-
I'm really lost on this issue-








[/quote]

i personally would use the ones on the floor as returns... and the overflow for (duh) the overflow... you should be able to get some flexi returns and attach them to a clear tube (or pvc painted black) and have it go above water level otherwise there will be nothing stoping it from draining 500gals into your sump.... you could even reduce the size of the sump pump for more contact time with bio, and get some big canisters to go with it for more water flow... beings most powerheads are gunna be compared to a fart in a windstorm....
[/quote]

So if I understand this right then-All's i need to do is get some tubeing the same size as the hles drilled in my tank-and make sure they go above the water line-Wont that make for a damn noisy tank though-water splashing wise that is-
[/quote]

the bulkheads in the bottom should accept a common size of pvc... glue it up, above water level, and you can T at the top, and return it under water a few inches...i will draw up a quick paint drawing..... you could also just ball valve both of the bottom holes, and use them for drains and water changes...

ok.... any of the legnts can be adjusted to your preference.... and you can even swivel any of the pvc fittings to direct water in any direction, the only place i would use glue is where it attaches to the bottom of the tank...


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Skunkbudfour20 said:


> Very nice!! Looks like there are drains in the bottom. Are those running to your wet dry? In a power outage your sump will overflow like that, imagine all that water on the floor, wow. Need integraded overflows or overflow box that hangs on the tank.


Yes those run to my sump filter sir-
Thanks-does it make ne difference that there is a over flow box that is located inside my tank-
I'm really lost on this issue-








[/quote]

i personally would use the ones on the floor as returns... and the overflow for (duh) the overflow... you should be able to get some flexi returns and attach them to a clear tube (or pvc painted black) and have it go above water level otherwise there will be nothing stoping it from draining 500gals into your sump.... you could even reduce the size of the sump pump for more contact time with bio, and get some big canisters to go with it for more water flow... beings most powerheads are gunna be compared to a fart in a windstorm....
[/quote]

So if I understand this right then-All's i need to do is get some tubeing the same size as the hles drilled in my tank-and make sure they go above the water line-Wont that make for a damn noisy tank though-water splashing wise that is-
[/quote]

the bulkheads in the bottom should accept a common size of pvc... glue it up, above water level, and you can T at the top, and return it under water a few inches...i will draw up a quick paint drawing..... you could also just ball valve both of the bottom holes, and use them for drains and water changes...
[/quote]

Appreciated 420-I think I got the idea on it-Really doesn't matter as long as I have a secure fitting on my bulk heads-Just run that tube above the water line-Can also t it off and drop it back under the water level for noise issues-

Sound about right?









Sorry for my ignorance here-Just wanna make sure i got the full idea on this issue-

Once I get to this stage man-How do i know how much water to fill into my sump before I start up the pump-Also how many gallon per hour pump am I gonna want to run for the retun on this guy-I got a rio rated for around the 650 gal mark-would this be suitable-Or do i need a much larger pump than this-If so the only other pump I have at the moment would be my little giant rated for 1500 gph-


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

most important thing to remember: DRILL A SMALL HOLE (1/8") in the ends of the 90 deg fittings AT or just above running level.... this way if your pump stops, it wont start a back siphon and flood your house..... really if you have that you are safe to put 3/4 full of water in your sump.... and that will create the only noise in the system basically

depending on the exact dimensions of the sump.... and dimensions of the media storage... and size of the overflow (i will magnify the pics in a sec to hopefully see... i dunno why you wouldnt have the big one in there... thats prob around 2.5x turnover per hour, with the head rating on that pump... if its too much you can switch it fairly easy.... you may want 2 smaller pumps to power each return T individually.... its up to you! some more detailed pics, and i will draw you up a parts list and diagram no probs...

from what i can see they have it running the reverse way i am talking about... which doesnt make sence to me at all... if you want to keep it that way i would just switch the pump, and add 3 or 4" onto the bottom drains to keep your sand or gravel from fallin in... and thats about it... not near as effective in my opinion but either way let me know what you wana do...


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Skunkbudfour20 said:


> most important thing to remember: DRILL A SMALL HOLE (1/8") in the ends of the 90 deg fittings AT or just above running level.... this way if your pump stops, it wont start a back siphon and flood your house..... really if you have that you are safe to put 3/4 full of water in your sump.... and that will create the only noise in the system basically
> 
> depending on the exact dimensions of the sump.... and dimensions of the media storage... and size of the overflow (i will magnify the pics in a sec to hopefully see... i dunno why you wouldnt have the big one in there... thats prob around 2.5x turnover per hour, with the head rating on that pump... if its too much you can switch it fairly easy.... you may want 2 smaller pumps to power each return T individually.... its up to you! some more detailed pics, and i will draw you up a parts list and diagram no probs...
> 
> from what i can see they have it running the reverse way i am talking about... which doesnt make sence to me at all... if you want to keep it that way i would just switch the pump, and add 3 or 4" onto the bottom drains to keep your sand or gravel from fallin in... and thats about it... not near as effective in my opinion but either way let me know what you wana do...


so you mean drill holes in 90 degree pieces that are at the t you were talking abuot to get my return under water-Which if setup right the 90 degree peices should be sittin above the water line ne how- right-or wrong-LOL

Right now I dont know the demensions on the sump filter-And wont know until this next friday-after the tank gets here-unfortunately-But it is right around the 3 foot long by 2 foot wide by maybe a foot and a half tall to 2 foot tall-Whatever that equals out to be-
[/quote]

He also said sir-that one time the power went off and the tank drained it's self-so i need to redo the whole thing-Teach me the right way-


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

the first way we talked about is the right way.... get me more pics of the fittings on the tank, the overflow and the sump and i will draw it up with a parts list.... fairly simple really... whenever it gets there i can have it drawn up in 20 minutes, and you on the way to the hardware store....


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

Skunkbudfour20 said:


> the first way we talked about is the right way.... get me more pics of the fittings on the tank, the overflow and the sump and i will draw it up with a parts list.... fairly simple really... whenever it gets there i can have it drawn up in 20 minutes, and you on the way to the hardware store....


Gotcha sir-







Thanks again 420


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## CROSSHAIR223 (Jan 17, 2005)

Jesus Shirley, can't you post this in the right forum???:rasp:

Just busting your balls


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

CROSSHAIR223 said:


> Jesus Shirley, can't you post this in the right forum???:rasp:
> 
> Just busting your balls


I am challenged


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## CROSSHAIR223 (Jan 17, 2005)

LOL, what time you gonna be down there tomm?


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

CROSSHAIR223 said:


> LOL, what time you gonna be down there tomm?


Dunno exactly man-sooner the better-But I'm a lazy bitch-9ish to 9:30 ish-Does this work?

Also have to be done sooner than later-Have to be out of there by 11 or so-Gotta do tank maintence tomarrow also-


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## RedRazor (Mar 8, 2007)

I was in your same exaxt predicament. I had a holes drilled in the bottom. I have not got my overflow boxes yet so I ran 1 1/2inch pvc up to surface with just a "T" on the top. This works but do you really want to see pvc piping running all through your $3000.00 tank? the over flow boxes are much more inconspicuous, never lose siphon, and will never overflow your sump. For a tank that size you may consider dual 600gph overflows with 2 submersible pumps either both in your sump(if its big enough) or 2 actual sumps. It would suck to see a tank of this stature not done right.
check this out


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## Pitbullmike (Feb 14, 2006)

That is a bad ass tank I like it can't wait to see the pics of it all set up congrats


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## Bawb2u (May 27, 2004)

If you don't want big PVC standpipes, just use the drilled holes to plumb in a canister filter. Use your overflow box and a return line for the wet dry and you'll have no overflow worries.


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## ICEE (Feb 3, 2007)

very sweet tank


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## RAZOR_TOOTH (Jun 22, 2006)

Thats going to be a great set up.. Keep us posted with pics..

R.T.


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## RedRazor (Mar 8, 2007)

Here is a pic of PVC, it works and silent to but I'm getting boxes. Just wanted to show you what they might look like.


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## pottsburg (Aug 30, 2006)

What in the hell kind of canister would you want to use on a tank that big if you've got a built in overflow/sump? haha

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1081036

made me think of you...... sorry lol


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## b_ack51 (Feb 11, 2003)

I vote to put in 1,000 neon tetras. It would be sweet.


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## SAFETYpin (Feb 1, 2004)

I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.

This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


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## Bawb2u (May 27, 2004)

pottsburg said:


> What in the hell kind of canister would you want to use on a tank that big if you've got a built in overflow/sump? haha


Ocean Clear. I'd do two modules, the 354 as a pre-filter and the 380UV for the bio-filter. I'd run it with a Coralife Turbo Sea High Pressure Pump-1740P, plumbed up through those 2 holes in the floor to fill the tank from the bottom with water surging up like a natural spring and out takes in the back corners. Then I'd use the overflow box and wet/dry for extra biological. That way you get lots of water turnover percolating up to keep particulate suspended so the filters pull it out faster and you can still run the wet/dry slow enough to make it effecient for a big bio-load. That way you have huge mechanical and biological filtration and lots of water movement without having to wory about overflowing a sump and no PVC standpipes right in the middle of the tank.haha, yourself.


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

SAFETYpin said:


> I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.
> 
> This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.
> 
> http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Not to argue by ne means-But if I have an over flow-why is this needed?

There is a huge over flow box that one can clearly see in the pics-It is inside the tank-i just need to know-how manygallon per hour pump I need to run this thing-And I need to figure out,what in the world needs or can be done with the holes that are drilled in the center-I guess it will have to really wait until I get all the equipment in front of me to better understand this-Cause honestly all you guys are doing is confuseing the hell out of me right now-LOL


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## SAFETYpin (Feb 1, 2004)

AKSkirmish said:


> I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.
> 
> This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.
> 
> http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Not to argue by ne means-But if I have an over flow-why is this needed?

There is a huge over flow box that one can clearly see in the pics-It is inside the tank-i just need to know-how manygallon per hour pump I need to run this thing-And I need to figure out,what in the world needs or can be done with the holes that are drilled in the center-I guess it will have to really wait until I get all the equipment in front of me to better understand this-Cause honestly all you guys are doing is confuseing the hell out of me right now-LOL
[/quote]

Personally the holes in the center of the tank feel kinda useless to me, I'd plug them. Even with an overflow box your going to want somekind of standpipe design or your overflow will just sound like a toilet flushing all the time. Your looking for a turnover rate around 6-8x per hour, remember to take headpressure into account when deciding on a pump. Alot of the manufactures of pumps have charts to show what their pump flows at different heads.

This one is for Danner Magdrive pumps


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

SAFETYpin said:


> I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.
> 
> This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.
> 
> http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Not to argue by ne means-But if I have an over flow-why is this needed?

There is a huge over flow box that one can clearly see in the pics-It is inside the tank-i just need to know-how manygallon per hour pump I need to run this thing-And I need to figure out,what in the world needs or can be done with the holes that are drilled in the center-I guess it will have to really wait until I get all the equipment in front of me to better understand this-Cause honestly all you guys are doing is confuseing the hell out of me right now-LOL
[/quote]

Personally the holes in the center of the tank feel kinda useless to me, I'd plug them. Even with an overflow box your going to want somekind of standpipe design or your overflow will just sound like a toilet flushing all the time. Your looking for a turnover rate around 6-8x per hour, remember to take headpressure into account when deciding on a pump. Alot of the manufactures of pumps have charts to show what their pump flows at different heads.

This one is for Danner Magdrive pumps

[/quote]

Ok I now understand what you mean by a flushing toliet-LOL-One more thing sir-How do I know how much flow or current my sump can handle-id there some kind of rule to go by for pumps for volume of sumps-

So does this sound even remotely right then-Alls the stand pipe if for is to raise the water level in my overflow box-Once the water levels fills to where the 90 degree is-It will start to flow to my sump when it reaches this point-Damn hope thats right-

Then the holes on bottom should end up being plugged-What else could be done with them unstead of plugging them-Or should i just plug them alltogether-Coulnd't I just connect a holes to the bottom of these with a ball valve to aid in draing my tank for water changes and maintence purposes-


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## SAFETYpin (Feb 1, 2004)

AKSkirmish said:


> I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.
> 
> This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.
> 
> http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Not to argue by ne means-But if I have an over flow-why is this needed?

There is a huge over flow box that one can clearly see in the pics-It is inside the tank-i just need to know-how manygallon per hour pump I need to run this thing-And I need to figure out,what in the world needs or can be done with the holes that are drilled in the center-I guess it will have to really wait until I get all the equipment in front of me to better understand this-Cause honestly all you guys are doing is confuseing the hell out of me right now-LOL
[/quote]

Personally the holes in the center of the tank feel kinda useless to me, I'd plug them. Even with an overflow box your going to want somekind of standpipe design or your overflow will just sound like a toilet flushing all the time. Your looking for a turnover rate around 6-8x per hour, remember to take headpressure into account when deciding on a pump. Alot of the manufactures of pumps have charts to show what their pump flows at different heads.

This one is for Danner Magdrive pumps

[/quote]

Ok I now understand what you mean by a flushing toliet-LOL-One more thing sir-How do I know how much flow or current my sump can handle-id there some kind of rule to go by for pumps for volume of sumps-

So does this sound even remotely right then-Alls the stand pipe if for is to raise the water level in my overflow box-Once the water levels fills to where the 90 degree is-It will start to flow to my sump when it reaches this point-Damn hope thats right-

Then the holes on bottom should end up being plugged-What else could be done with them unstead of plugging them-Or should i just plug them alltogether-Coulnd't I just connect a holes to the bottom of these with a ball valve to aid in draing my tank for water changes and maintence purposes-
[/quote]

Sounds like your getting it now, how much water to pump out of the sump is largely determined by how big the bulkheads feeding the tank are. I believe a 1in bulk head is good to around 600gph. If the sump is meant to handle the tank capacity it can also handle the flow required to run that size tank. Do you know the capacity of the bio-chambers, basically the how many gallons of bio-balls will it hold?

You could also utilize those under tank holes for draining, as long as substrate couldnt get stuck in them, and prevent you from closing that ball valve.


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

SAFETYpin said:


> I thought I would add to the confusion by bringing up Durso Standpipe design.
> 
> This will teach you how to build or buy one, than all you will need is to glue in an overflow box.
> 
> http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Not to argue by ne means-But if I have an over flow-why is this needed?

There is a huge over flow box that one can clearly see in the pics-It is inside the tank-i just need to know-how manygallon per hour pump I need to run this thing-And I need to figure out,what in the world needs or can be done with the holes that are drilled in the center-I guess it will have to really wait until I get all the equipment in front of me to better understand this-Cause honestly all you guys are doing is confuseing the hell out of me right now-LOL
[/quote]

Personally the holes in the center of the tank feel kinda useless to me, I'd plug them. Even with an overflow box your going to want somekind of standpipe design or your overflow will just sound like a toilet flushing all the time. Your looking for a turnover rate around 6-8x per hour, remember to take headpressure into account when deciding on a pump. Alot of the manufactures of pumps have charts to show what their pump flows at different heads.

This one is for Danner Magdrive pumps

[/quote]

Ok I now understand what you mean by a flushing toliet-LOL-One more thing sir-How do I know how much flow or current my sump can handle-id there some kind of rule to go by for pumps for volume of sumps-

So does this sound even remotely right then-Alls the stand pipe if for is to raise the water level in my overflow box-Once the water levels fills to where the 90 degree is-It will start to flow to my sump when it reaches this point-Damn hope thats right-

Then the holes on bottom should end up being plugged-What else could be done with them unstead of plugging them-Or should i just plug them alltogether-Coulnd't I just connect a holes to the bottom of these with a ball valve to aid in draing my tank for water changes and maintence purposes-
[/quote]

Sounds like your getting it now, how much water to pump out of the sump is largely determined by how big the bulkheads feeding the tank are. I believe a 1in bulk head is good to around 600gph. If the sump is meant to handle the tank capacity it can also handle the flow required to run that size tank. Do you know the capacity of the bio-chambers, basically the how many gallons of bio-balls will it hold?

You could also utilize those under tank holes for draining, as long as substrate couldnt get stuck in them, and prevent you from closing that ball valve.
[/quote]

Thanks Safety










I'm working on the bulkhead and pump situation in another thread right now-I'm starting to understand that alittle better as well-makein progress at least-LOL,Unfortunately rihgt now I dont have the sump in front of me-that will be here with the tank this comming friday-Then i can have all the measurements we need to get this sorted out-I believe though that the sump (demensions of bioballs)-is around two feet wide by 3 feet long,and roughly around20 inches tall probably- they only have a section probaby 3 to 4 inchs under the bioball chamber for water to go-Whatever that equals out to be-


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## assclown (Dec 12, 2005)

i just pooped when i saw that pic of your tank


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

assclown said:


> i just pooped when i saw that pic of your tank


Go wipe that out sir!!!!!! Hurry please,

Thanks man for the kind words!!!!!! I'm pretty excited to say the least


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## KISS (Feb 2, 2007)

Very nice tank. Great dimension!

Any way, just wondering how much does the whole filter system cost roughly? Thanks for advice.


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## AKSkirmish (Jun 24, 2005)

KISS said:


> Very nice tank. Great dimension!
> 
> Any way, just wondering how much does the whole filter system cost roughly? Thanks for advice.


Thanks-In my other thread-somethign has been mentioned of around the $600 mark-


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