# Mods Plz Delete



## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)




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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

Finally had some time to work on this project.
Theres gunna be lots of DIY in this.

This is where I So Far.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

Painted


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## sapir (Jun 20, 2008)

looking good bro, no worries about the stand?


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

High 5 for the first comment.

None, Attached to the studs on the wall,
The legs are are those big Deck Posts.

the plumbing begins.


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## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

so, are you doing a sump in the room behind the tank? Why not just do it under the tank in the stand, or did you want a bigger sump then you could fit?


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

CLUSTER ONE said:


> so, are you doing a sump in the room behind the tank? Why not just do it under the tank in the stand, or did you want a bigger sump then you could fit?


I have the room behind the Tank. Its alot more quiet, Have more space. And I dont have to worry about the flooring. Also its alot more clean and simple looking display.

My light is In!!

Current USA 6x
Fiji Purple and Atinic blue
Rest is stock bulbs.


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## Wide_Eyed_Wanderer (Aug 22, 2006)

Yo Shiver man this is excellent. A pico to this? Lol how big is this tank? Your corals are going to POP with color with that fixture. I seen a shallow-ish reef like your tank powered by a 6 bulb nova extreme and it was really visually appealing. GL on the build I will stay tuned for sure.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

The 50g Sump is ready.
I love the way its working.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

Skimmer/Drain/ Phos Reactor = Section 1
Refuge = Section 2
Return = Section 3

Im not shure at all what I want as a Return pump. 
Either a normal Return like a MAG/Eheim..ect

Or blast the thing with a external little giant and 4 small returns.
Little Giant = No power heads- cleaner look

Not too shure-

Id love some input.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

shiver905 said:


> Skimmer/Drain/ Phos Reactor = Section 1
> Refuge = Section 2
> Return = Section 3
> 
> ...


Using the return from your sump as a primary source of flow is a bad idea... you should stick with 10x or something similar turnover. That high of turnover makes it almost impossible to remove all the waste before it rushes past the skimmer, media, and everything else. IDEALLY you would match the return pump gph (AFTER head loss, at the tank) with your skimmer pump, or just more... You would have the drain from your tank go directly to the skimmer pump (as close as possible, leaving room for a filter sock) and that would flow through baffles to the return pump... you should divert your drain (with a T and ball valve, simple to do!) before the skimmer into the fuge, as feeding the fuge with skimmed water is pointless.... nothing will grow.

Return pump in center (mag drive!) and fuge on one side, skimmer on one side... both chambers flowing into the center compartment back to the tank.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

Thats food for thought, Thanks.


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## Grosse Gurke (Jan 3, 2003)

Looking really nice man...very clean.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

I really didnt have too much time this week, for any progress.

I did glue all the pvc.


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## Wide_Eyed_Wanderer (Aug 22, 2006)

I still want to know the gallonage of the main tank please!


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## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

SHould the unions be before not after the valves?. When you undo the union and take it apart i would think the valve would still be on the pipe closest to the tank so you can close it as the way you have it dow you can close it on the sump side which would be against gravity anyways so water wouldn't even be at that height where as on the other side it could siphone down with gravity. The way you have it doesn't seem the valves block anything. I probably also wouldn't of done the sharp corners for the return as that will mean head loss

Your valves work for controlling the flow, but im not sure how your going to prevent siphoning from the tank


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## His Majesty (Apr 5, 2005)

great thread shiver. loving the DIY work


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

CLUSTER ONE said:


> SHould the unions be before not after the valves?. When you undo the union and take it apart i would think the valve would still be on the pipe closest to the tank so you can close it as the way you have it dow you can close it on the sump side which would be against gravity anyways so water wouldn't even be at that height where as on the other side it could siphone down with gravity. The way you have it doesn't seem the valves block anything. I probably also wouldn't of done the sharp corners for the return as that will mean head loss
> 
> Your valves work for controlling the flow, but im not sure how your going to prevent siphoning from the tank


I didnt even notice. 
Thats a great point.
I'll get to that 1 day.


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## CLUSTER ONE (Aug 2, 2006)

I would just one day cut the line and put two new ones on the other side and make it like a canister quick disconnect with valves on either side.


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

im preety shure its a 20 or 30g tank.

36x16x16


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## shiver905 (May 27, 2009)

Someone buy my Reds and my FX5.

This build is going to be a coral set up.
My 90 is going to be the FOWLR Tank.

Not to shure if i should plumb them together.
It seems like a waste when I start doseing.


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## Ægir (Jan 21, 2006)

shiver905 said:


> Someone buy my Reds and my FX5.
> 
> This build is going to be a coral set up.
> My 90 is going to be the FOWLR Tank.
> ...


Not just that, but a FOWLR tank has less "strict" water quality rules... You would just be adding extra waste into your reef system. You would also be depleting things (phosban, carbon, UV bulbs, etc) faster in your reef system for no reason.

Keep them separate for sure...

Things are looking good man!


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